SEW A BOXED AND WELTED CUSHION
Before starting this project please study Basic Cutting and Sewing and How to Install a Zipper in a Pillow. Also if you don't want to have a zipper, as in the case of an open back piece of furniture, then study How to Hand sew.
Learning to sew boxed and welted cushions is one of the most important aspects of upholstery. The common boxed arm or inside back is done pretty much the same way. For more details on fitting and cutting a boxed cushion and instruction on different kinds of cushions (waterfall, cut-out corners, butterfly corners, etc.) see upholstery training videos.
If you plan on using the old cushion for a pattern, make sure it fits! Your client may not notice that there's a four inch gap between her sofa cushions when they are shoved together but she'll sure notice if you deliver them that way.
Using
our method of sewing cushions you can sew an entire side without cutting
your thread or removing your "foot". This photo shows our completed
cushion as seen from the back and side. Note the pocket where the zipper
boxing enters the cushion boxing. Be sure both the top and bottom plates
are identical shapes. The corners have to line up when you're finished.
The farther you are able to come around the corner with the zipper boxing
the easier the cushion will be to fill especially if it has the old spring
units inside. We use 1/2" seams.
We
use #4 aluminum chain zipper which can be cut to any length. Fold down
a 1/2" section of boxing fabric and top stitch it with the edge of
the boxing at the center of the zipper teeth and the stitch just to the
right of the teeth. Do this for both boxing pieces. You shouldn't be able
to see the zipper at all at this point.
If
you are using an industrial sewing machine you can sew a stop tab (a small
piece of fabric) across the zipper after you have put on the slide. Set
aside the completed zipper boxing for now.
Make
sure you have marked both sides of both plates so you know where to begin
the boxing. Lay the welt down at least an inch, or more if you have the
space, before this mark. You will need to lap a small portion of the welt
later. Sew up to your mark then fold the boxing in at least 1 1/2"
and sew boxing and welt to the plate all at the same time. The machine
needle should be 1/2" from the edge of the plate and 1/2" from
the edge of the boxing and snug against the welt cord. It may seem a little
awkward at first but once you get a feel for it you won't have to keep
going over and over the boxing trying to cover up the stitching from sewing
each piece separately. You must be able to get your needle close to the
welt cord as you saw in the basics information.
Just
before you get to the corner, make 3 cuts part way into the boxing and
welt seam allowance. One cut is directly across from the corner and one
slightly before and one slightly after. This releases the fabric to make
the turn without binding. Sew up to this point across from the corner,
leave your needle in the material, and lift the machine foot. Next, turn
the plate and push a little to crimp the cording for a nice square corner,
sew the front of the cushion, and next corner. Never piece the welt or
boxing in front of the cushion.
As
you near the mark you made showing where to end the boxing, fold in the
boxing at least an 1 1/2", more is okay. Add the zipper boxing inside
the pocket you just created, also in at least 1 1/2". Continue around
the plate, butt and lap the welt cord as you learned in the pillow instructions.
Play out the zipper boxing into the pocket you made when you started. Should
be at least 1 1/2", more is okay.
Now,
notch all the corners in the boxing so you can align them with the other
plate. Fold the zipper boxing out of your way and start just as you did
on the first side. Check to make sure your v-notch lines up with the plate
corner. Sometimes there's a tendency to pull the boxing stretching it,
let it feed itself. When you get around to the pocket start the zipper
boxing, making sure it's corners line up with plate. Play out the zipper
boxing. Turn the cushion right side out. If the welt is even and tight
and the corners all line up then give yourself an award as an Official
Upholstery Seamperson!
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOAT AND BAY WINDOW CUSHIONS
When making large cushions such as in boats or on window seats it's best to make a template. You can use bottom cloth (cambric) or some other cheap fabric or brown paper for your pattern. Place a chalk mark at the center of the seat, front and back. Often bay windows will need 3 cushions. Lightly draw a line from the corner of the wall to the corner of the seat. Place the template material down and chalk off a pattern along the wall, the line you drew, and the edge of the seat. Make a pattern for all 3 cushions. Add on for seam allowance.
Judgement Calls:
When doing a below deck boat cushion try to find at least one straight edge to align your template fabric. Use a tape measure, 60" ruler and framer's square. Tape the pattern a few places. If your cushion is going against the hull remember it will be wider at the top plate. You can make two patterns on one template by placing a piece of foam or something the proper height and marking around the hull where the top plate will go, then removing and marking where the bottom plate will go. Notch both plates in a few places so that you can line them up right with the boxing. See how to work with vinyl in our truck seat segment.
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