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Webbing
Webbing supports the springs of your sofa, or upholstered
armchair. If it's worn out, the upholsterer replaces it, using one
of three kinds: Nylon, which is serviceable and least expensive but
not the longest wearing. Jute, an imported fiber from India
preferred for quality and strength. And polyester, the latest in use
and said to be very long lasting.
Webbing comes in strips about 3½ inches wide and it's stretched
across the deck (or frame) and woven back and forth like the reed
strips in a basket. Webbing is also put on chair seats that have
pads and no springs. It is also put on seats and backs of fully
upholstered chairs.
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Hand-Tied Springs
The 8-way hand-tied spring is a mark of quality and a byword in
industry parlance. But the consumer can be somewhat mystified and is
apt to respond with, "It sounds good but what does it mean?"
It means you'll never be sorry.
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Coil Springs
The 8-way hand-tie uses a coil spring which is the strongest,
most resilient, flexible and longest lasting. It practically never
gives out, although a coil or two may give up and come loose or
break.
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Tying Process
To refurbish springs, the upholsterer re-attaches loose springs,
replaces any if necessary, and re-ties the entire set, one by one.
Each coil is sewn to the webbing (or attached with a metal clip),
then tied to the coil next to it. Each row of coils is then tied
front to back, side to side, and diagonally two ways, 8 in all. And
all are tied on exactly the same level to make a symmetrical, even
suspension for the most comfortable seating.
Different Degrees of Suspension
This smooth meadow of springs can be tied at different levels for
different degrees of firmness. The more they are pulled down, the
firmer the seating. Firm, medium-firm, or hard, the hand-tied coil
spring will always have g-i-v-e.
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Zig-Zag Springs
Zig-zag springs are also hand-tied. They are an S-shape, simpler
in construction, and are used in frames that take stresses
differently and for which they are more appropriate. They have come
into use more recently than the coil spring, and are differently
attached to the frame, with clips.
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Fillings
Fillings provide the comfort on seats and backs of upholstered
furniture, and also influence the shaping. They vary from down,
which gives a rich, plushy softness–to hair blends for the firmest
seatings.
Down
Now that full, plump cushions and seatings are in fashion, down
is used alone in matching pillows, and in combination with other
fibers for the seating, as with a mix of rubber for smoothness and
resilience. Down is the most expensive filling. It is seductively
soft and is the traditional luxury filling.
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Fluffy Polyester
Made in rolls of varying thicknesses, Polyester can be used alone
or as a wrapping for polyfoam. Provides a smooth, rounded and soft
cushion and is an excellent contemporary filling. Used with all
styles of furniture.
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Polyurethane Foam
Polyurethane foam is a popular and reliable material that does a
good job at shaping and stuffing, and comes in different densities
for different degrees of firmness: Soft, Medium, Super Resilient
(SR), Firm, Extra Firm and High Resiliency (HR) for the most firm.
Newer foams belonging the the High Resilience (HR) family offer a
soft, initial feel and then firm up as more pressure is put on it...
Yielding very comfortable and supportive seating.
Hair Blends
Firmest of all, is hair. This used to be horsehair, the kind that
plumped up the old Victorian sofa on which the properties of sitting
stiffly on an unyielding surface were the manners of the day. Today,
the filling is more flexible and inviting, and it's hogs-hair or
cattle hair mixed with other fibers for a kindlier feel and better
resilience. It gives first-class firmness and has a long, sturdy
life with plenty of comfort and bounce.
Choosing
Fillings are also chosen by the upholsterer according to the
style of the piece. If it's tightly tailored, even though the
cushioning is thick, a firmer filling will be used. If the style
takes lots of tucking and draping, has soft, loose cushions, and you
want both the appearance and the sensation of deep-down softness, a
fluffier filling is used. You can talk this over with your
upholsterer who will advise you, but the ultimate decision is yours.
You're the one who's going to sit on it, and personal preference has
the last word. Also, these materials vary in price so it's nice to
know what you are getting and what you are paying for.
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Padding
Padding is the material that goes on directly under your
upholstery fabric. Its function is to fill out and firm up the
contours of the sofa or chair (fully upholstered) so that the fabric
sits smoothly and fits perfectly all around, without wrinkles or
puckers.
Padding also acts as a buffer along the arms and back of a piece
where friction and wear show up first, as on corners and edges.
Cotton padding is considered the best because it wears long. The
cotton is mixed with a bit of felt and fabricated in rolls. These
come in different grades and a thickness of about 1¾" is considered
a good padding. Polyester fiberfill is also currently being used as
a padding and is providing excellent results.
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Fabrics: Finishing a Piece With a Flourish
Everyone visualizes the transforming effect of the fabric on a
re-created sofa or chair. As one young homemaker put it, the fabric
"is part of the fun" of reupholstering. Fabric has character and
personality. It speaks for your taste, your style. And in your own
home, it can be as personal and individual as your signature.
The Fabric Advantage in Reupholstery
Fabric is also one of the two big costs in Reupholstery (the
other is labor). So it's important to get good value as well as good
fashion. The bigger the choice, the better the chance of finding a
fabric that suits both your decor and your budget. This is
where Reupholstery gives you the benefit of rich variety and
enormous volume. The selection is practically endless.
A World of Choice
Big reupholstering firms can offer a thousand samples, imported
and domestic. Smaller shops carry hundreds. All in different grades
of quality. You can wind up with a good decorator fabric, which,
when figured into the total cost of a reupholstering job, comes to
considerably less than today's price for an expensive piece of
upholstered furniture.
Wear Quality
How do you judge for wear? A classic standard applies here, as
used by the professionals: "The tighter the weave, the longer the
wear." The standard is threads to the inch. One square inch of
fabric with 8 or 10 thick threads doesn't have the strength
of one square inch densely packed with 30 to 40 thin threads.
Specifically: A woven cotton tapestry, where the colors and pattern
are tightly woven in with colored threads, wears better than a
cotton with the colors printed on. To check a fabric yourself, hold
it up to the light. The less light that shows through, the tighter
the weave. A good upholsterer will advise you also. He knows fabrics
like the back of his hand and can clue you in to textures and
constructions.
Fibers and Blends
Fibers also make a difference in wear. Natural fibers, like
cotton, take color differently from man-made fibers. They can be
richer, more subtle. While the man-mades have resilience and
strength. That's how the blends came into use. So cotton with
polyester, for example, gives you the best attributes of both. Other
blends will use nylon, acrylic, rayon. And man-made fibers alone
(far advanced over the earlier versions) make many attractive long
wearing pieces.
Texture Types
The appearance of certain textures will vary with use. Fabrics
with a nap, like velvets and corduroys, look different in different
lights, and show wear where they've been sat upon. Silks are more
delicate, but many are fortified with a man-made fiber. And fabrics
with highly textured surfaces, like loopy tweeds and homespuns can
"pull" after a while. Flat weaves, like the cottons, damasks,
jacquards, and close-grained tightly ribbed cottons stand up well.
Soil Resistance & Cleanability
For cleanability, each fiber has its compensating feature.
Natural fibers absorb soil faster than man-made fibers, but clean
better. While man-made fibers are more soil resistant, but don't
always clean as well. Many fabrics are treated with soil-resistant
finishes, but the finish doesn't last forever, so be prepared after
a time, to have the upholstery cleaned.
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Choosing An Upholsterer
Get recommendations from friends whenever possible. Check your
local yellow pages or check out our online Upholstery
Locator. Decide where to follow up, pick the shops and walk in.
What you see is a good indication of quality of work. Large
establishments usually have large premises. They occupy whole
floors, or lofts, where you can get an eye-filling view of work in
various stages of reupholstering; stripped-down frames, fillings,
cushions getting the finishing touch in their full dress fabrics,
pipings and weltings put on by hand, people at work tables doing the
real skillful thing.
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Smaller shops will have a piece or two on display, and if you
don't see one, ask to see a sample of the upholsterers work. Making
the rounds is no different from shopping for any other product.
Also, look at the fabrics and then talk costs. It's a good idea to
visit both large and small companies. In either case, the one you
decide to work with comes to your house, looks at the piece you want
re-done, and brings samples. A small shop can be just as effective
as a large one in doing custom work, helping to carry out your decor
and suggesting appropriate fabrics.
Visit Jack Carr's website at www.carrscorner.com
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