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fragged8
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« : June 19, 2011, 04:57:56 PM »

hi guys

I'm trying to make some cue cards for my sewer for when i'm away
covering almost every job. would you mind looking at them and
seeing if i've made mistakes.

 very rough at the moment and the methods may differ from yours
slightly but any help appreciated.
also the curved aft pocket will have some more sheets to go with it

feel free to collect them if you can use them. I will make the jpgs' higher res
when they are finished

to resize in a browser hold the CTRL key and roll your mouse wheel





« : June 19, 2011, 05:00:25 PM fragged8 »

Mike8560
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« #1 : June 19, 2011, 08:16:03 PM »

Looks
ok to me if your makeinf s pocket with the matching curve and a strifht side
what is "ocl" ?
Mojo
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« #2 : June 19, 2011, 08:18:52 PM »

I believe OCL may mean On Center Line Mike but not sure.

I know in our buildings trades here in the USA OC means On Center.

Chris
fragged8
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« #3 : June 20, 2011, 02:56:56 AM »

it just what i was taught and it's stuck with me

OCL is Original Copied Line or the first patterned
line on the back bow, all the rest for the pocket
are copied from the Original.

although my sewer has been doing boats for years she hadn't
sewn a pocket till she worked for me, our pram hoods are so
basic, instead of pockets they used velcro and nothing else.
i'm just making the cue cards to remind her when i'm away,
will help me too when i forget :-)

Mike8560
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« #4 : June 20, 2011, 09:11:25 AM »

Thanks
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« #5 : June 20, 2011, 09:21:33 PM »

Oh boy, you lost me! She has the advantage of knowing what the hell your talking about though! ;) I love the sheets themselves, very clear and nice drawings. How did you draw them? I followed the first page (kinda) but the second one has me baffled. Is that the flip trace method from that Marine Fabricator article? I think you should get off your lazy arse and pattern your damn rain flaps! Save you a whole flash card!
;)Now I know what you go through when I try to explain something!

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Mike8560
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« #6 : June 20, 2011, 11:16:58 PM »

What indo is my pockets are curved just like the bow. So I cut my blanks 8" longer at each end input the bows curved mark 8" in cut it on and slide the canvas 5" (the width of my pockets) over tue cut off piece and trace the curve to make my 5" pocket. This leaves 3" for my rain flap that has the same curve  recess it's curve and the flap angles down over the zipper  and window or aft curtian
if I knew how rich did it I'd make a diaghram also   
fragged8
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« #7 : June 21, 2011, 04:40:31 PM »

hehe sorry Peppy, I don't do the flip trace theres no need.

it's actually quite easy to lay out the rain flaps at the same time as
the big bow pocket and whats left over is enough for a mid pocket
so you get it all done in one go. plus you can make the flaps just
the right shape to point down for a drop curtain, point backwards
for an enclosure or half way for a slanted curtain.

both the cover and the material you are making the pockets and flaps from
remain good side up, no flipping involved :-)

I used Corel Draw to do the diagrams, I do some vinyl lettering
work too so need to have the graphics software.

I think i get what you're saying Mike, It sounds pretty much what i'm doing
except I leave 18" at the end for pockets and rain flaps when using a blanket.

my flaps are double thichness but yours are single thickness right  ?

I also have a little trick I picked up at the school for making the very end
of the bow pockets neater, and more snug against the Bow. Most bow
pockets i've seen you can slide your finger up the back of the bow between
the bow and the pocket seam. Doing the 'roll out' trick you can eliminate this.

Rich
« : June 21, 2011, 04:43:32 PM fragged8 »

bobbin
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« #8 : June 21, 2011, 05:26:51 PM »

Wow, Rich.  I think you're a very considerate "boss".  I really respect the time and thought that goes into making "cue cards", handy referrals for those times when we all suffer a "brain cramp". 

I think "standards" are very, very important for any shop with employees.  As an employee myself, nothing is worse than not being able to have a question answered and finding oneself "dead in the water", as it were.  I speak from experience as my boss rarely leaves a proper work order and instructions are hastily spat out while concentration is clearly on the app't for which Boss is usually running late.  Questions from me are more usually greeted with impatience and irritation (like I'm the one creating the tardiness) than respect for someone with nearly 20 yrs. experience asking pertinent questions about an important project.  Drives me nuts, but every person has a different way to approach work, right?

I didn't have any trouble following the directions once I spent a little time thinking about what I was reading!
Mike8560
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« #9 : June 21, 2011, 07:26:52 PM »

Yes ri h that a single layer flap.   I Finnish my pocket  with binding first off they are 2" short of each end to allow for a zipper to fit   I  bind the ends of the pocket  and I bind the ine side (Insuide edge ) but I leave it long and sew the bi ding to the top all the way to the side of the top
then I bind the pocket binding along with the edge of my top did lose you I hope   Looks real nice  and finnished
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« #10 : June 22, 2011, 02:51:44 PM »

i think i get it Mike, do you usually do the sculpted pockets or
parallel all the way.

  we talked about this ages ago but I forget hehe, I'm so gonna
come see you and pay you to make me a bimini :-)

Rich

Mike8560
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« #11 : June 22, 2011, 07:34:17 PM »

VeI've alsways made mine parralel rich. 5" btw
I was reading a article in the marine fab mag last month about making a large  bimini. There was on a trawler about  10' or more long.
Anyway one thing I took notice of was talking about the center bow pockets  youk ow say a 36" long or so pocket on the secondayry bows  when the pocket is sewn on the bow line then folded back  down flat you only
need to pull it tight in the center area. Letting it slightly looser at each end  resin being it only needs to be tight in the center to hold the now right where it needs to be.
Leaving it looser at the ends iliminates any pull wrinkles  they might cause.
Also when they set up the frame to pull the top
over to pattern they used the fabric I belive. The center. IWW were slight higher then the main bows   If a line was tied ot strapping tape front bow to back bow the center secondary  bows were ontop of this
tale   Rhey said that you would want to add a dart here for the deflection caused from the bow being higher.
Just pattern the top as if it was level  and the top will be fine streaching out not needed thus dart.
 I tried this on a large top and it worked fine.
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« #12 : June 22, 2011, 08:38:00 PM »

We do things much differently. Our flaps only go to the start of the bend, on the bend we use tabs with snaps drilled into the bar.  All secondary bars are held up with straps to the main bar the flaps on those bars are only to stop the top lofting. I make them a little loose all the way.

I read that article too Mike. I would worry about run off doing it that way. I like 1 1/2" hight difference between the bars as a minimum. Can you lift the bars that much without a dart? And of course we seam side to side so no dart. And I don't think that guy puts crown in his bars?Wouldn't the dew do those things in? He must make them tight.

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Mike8560
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« #13 : June 23, 2011, 10:22:26 AM »

Unused to only have straps and small tops the. I started making pocket to prevent loft

I've sen small catalouge biminis with straps and a short pocket   
I bellive they. Meant that  the tops would streach  a d nit need the darts a little streach would go a long way  to illuminate  the need for a dart   
I so genererly have my  seam follow the bow side to side but some I ru. Fron t to back.
As this was originaly and it made sence material wise to do so
 
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« #14 : June 23, 2011, 01:08:09 PM »

i call your pockets Peppy, sculpted pockets. you can get
a lot of top adjustment that way right ?

I haven't recieved my Fab Mag yet Mike, so i'll look forward to seeing that article



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