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| | |-+  stamoid boat top fabrication techniques
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: stamoid boat top fabrication techniques  ( 2400 )
jeandeau
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« : July 01, 2012, 01:19:47 AM »

has any one use this produdct? if so, recommendations on thread stitching adhesives etc. are appreciated.  it is light and flexible. cuts easilly, seems stiff or non compliant but stretches in the sun when warmed. very expensive too.
bobbin
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« #1 : July 01, 2012, 10:04:02 AM »

We use it a lot in the shop where I work, although not so much for things like biminis or dodgers.  It's more commonly used for console, mooring, and winter covers. 

I don't do the patterning, nor do I construct biminis and dodgers (although I have both patterned and constructed them in the past at a previous job).  Stamoid is a fabulous product, and it "caught on" in Europe before the USA. 

As you've discovered, it's not the easiest product to work with in some circumstances. 
1.)   Double stick tape works great on it... but make sure you use a narrow tape and make sure it's well back from the edge of the seam.  As the tape heats it "bleeds" and it will leave a gunky residue that will attract and hold all  manner of dirt, grime, etc..  Looks gross, but won't hurt anything.  Clean up is a drag and it's best to avoid the necessity altogether!
2.)  It's tough to pattern Stamoid from a blank.  I think, better to do your patterning with plastic and then transfer it to the Stamoid (watch out! Sharpie markers leave marks that can't be removed!).  It's my own opinion that biminis made in sections yield a nicer, smoother end result than the "one shot deals" that are darted over the bows to provide the shape and fit. 
3.)  Expensive? yes! but it's such a nice product that handled well it's the "Cadillac" of vinyls.  It lasts and lasts and it looks great until it reaches the end of its lifespan.  And that's a long time!
4.)  Thread.  We only use poly. 92 or rarely 138.  I don't agree with that personally, but it's not my shop.  I'd be all over Tenara or something akin to it, personally.    Use the smallest needle you can to accomodate the thread size; this will minimize the size of the needle holes and therefore leakage at the seams. 
gene
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« #2 : July 01, 2012, 11:11:11 AM »

Thanks for the info bobbin. I've been putting together info to make a sail shade, or 2, for the back of my house. Stamoid was mentioned as a good product if I want water resistance, and I would have been asking the same question if I chose to use it.

gene

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bobbin
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« #3 : July 01, 2012, 11:27:43 AM »

I think the reason Stamoid is not used much for biminis and dodgers where I work has more to do with Boss's unwillingness to "suffer the learning curve" Stamoid requires.  Boss is not terribly talented when it comes to patterning, IMO.  I come from a garment background and know how to draft flat patterns and drape fit and I see basic mistakes repeatedly made and an unwillingness to try something new for fear of "wasting time" and fabric.  The end result is that nothing changes and nothing new is ever learned!  And so, when a customer requests Stamoid they are always steered away from it, or nearly always so!

I will add that the double coated Stamoid is harder to work with, but it lasts longer.  Single coated is still plenty strong (and less money) and if you think about how to work your patterns and are patient it will be a more "forgiving" fabric for your first attempts.

(thanks Gene!  :)  couldn't resist!)
Mike
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« #4 : July 01, 2012, 01:06:58 PM »

I dont get a request for it much. It or weblon. When i ha e it was cor a t top or a lace on hRd top on a big top. Most all want acrlic  and i agree with the look in bette imho. I did use weblon on my last. Ost only. Ecsusr i wanted white easy to clean and i wantEd it to last a long time

Grebo
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« #5 : July 03, 2012, 09:49:08 AM »

I used to use a far bit of stamoid, mostly the light version, but  I am now going off it a bit. I have had the odd (white) seating cover turning brown & burning out a bit like thin window vinyl.  ??? Ok it's had a few years in the sun, but it's not holding up as well as I had hoped.
I still like using the binding though, it out lasts most of the woven type from around here. But saying that I just had some navy which has left a stain on a white vinyl helm seat.  :-X
I am going to rebind with home made acrylic & try to remove the stain.

I second that comment from bobbin, double sided tape sticks real well but keep it well covered, no sticky out bits. Not only messy but can transfer to any thing that looks at it.  :(

Suzi
« : July 03, 2012, 09:55:59 AM Grebo »

Peppy
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« #6 : July 03, 2012, 04:57:03 PM »

I've only used Stamoid a couple times. I do not like it. Not even a little. I think it's soooooo ugly. Looks like a shower curtain or one of those things you wrap your kids mattress in to shed pee.

Just my opinion. Those that like it like it a lot. Not me though.

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DBR1957
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« #7 : July 04, 2012, 11:01:26 PM »

Only use Stamoid when the customer requests white and then only the heavier
double coated version. I don't like the Stamoid light.
JuneC
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« #8 : July 05, 2012, 09:18:26 AM »

I made these covers with Stamoid Light - bridge benches, helm chair, inflatable, and in the cockpit, the aft bench.  I've never made tops out of it, but like it for covers.  But I don't get to choose.  This was the customer's choice. 







I use a #18 needle, V92 thread and a fairly long stitch - maybe 6 per inch.  Seam stick tape works well, but I don't usually use it.  Also, beware of sharpie and Stamoid.  When transferring dart markings from plastic pattern to the fabric (both with right sides up so the marks on the plastic don't touch the Stamoid), I usually stick a pin through both so I can mark with a pencil where it comes out on the wrong side of the fabric.  Simply sticking a pin through a sharpie mark on the plastic and through the Stamoid will transfer enough ink to leave a dot on the Stamoid that spreads over a period of a few days. 

June

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