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: Enclosure Top Divots  ( 3110 )
regalman190
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« : September 04, 2013, 08:19:46 AM »

Hello All.

It's been a crazy summer and I haven't been on here much. Need to get back in touch with everyone again.
Having a problem that came about this year and I can't figure out why. Hope you can help. Trying to improve my technique and it looks like it's getting worse.
If you look at the picture below, you can see there are divots or a sink at the end of the pocket zippers. Can't for the life of me figure out what I'm doing wrong. I've tried relieving the pocket at the curve and that helped a little, but they're still there. I did change from plastic to a Tyvek type pattern material and I'm not stretching the pattern material as much as I used to with plastic.
Any ideas?

Thanks,
Joe




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Eric
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« #1 : September 04, 2013, 08:15:11 PM »

Looks like you either need a dart on the mid bow,or when you made the pattern, the marking was off as you came around the shoulders. I canvas fit, so when it comes to patterns I won't be alot of help. The curves look to need to be pulled tighter.
Eric
Mike
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« #2 : September 04, 2013, 08:44:02 PM »

hi Joe is the top of the top tight wrinkle free?  I don't make a relief at the curve.  I make it even alon g the whole pocket to allow for room for the tube inside.   try going tighter   when I pattern I male mt seam location for the pocket at the point with your frames in position if you layed a straight edge on the frame where your front window will be abd a straight edge where the canvas fabric will be my seam is at the point were the 2 straight edges intersect.



I think this may be your loosness problem
as eric said this seam location will move on the pipr as it comes around the curve  but its the same principal where 2 straight edged would meet on the side of the shoulder moves to the side
its the same principal eric if im making a pattern or fitting / patterning with the canvas blank the location of the seam is marked in  the same locaton.
« : September 04, 2013, 08:51:21 PM Mike »

regalman190
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« #3 : September 05, 2013, 07:05:25 AM »

Thanks Eric, Mike.

Mike..I mark my curves like you do and I haven't had this problem until recently. The tops are tight, but not as tight as I normally make them. There just seems to be an overall looseness. When you sew down your zipper pockets, do you lay everything flat around the curve? Pocket flat, flap flat?

Mike, Eric. I typically pattern in plastic and pull the plastic taunt, especially around the curves and from bow to bow. But, since I switched to this Tyvek material, I can't get the stretch and pull that I do with plastic or canvas. The only reason I switched was to get away from the creases in the plastic formed by the manufacturer folding it.

But, I think I need to go back to the plastic and back to the way I patterned before.

Thanks for the help.

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Mike
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« #4 : September 05, 2013, 07:34:48 AM »

I think your tite id go back to plastic.  Where you pulled it tight. It probly streached a little then relaxed on the table.making the canvas cut tight.   And sun rella has a big of give. So it fit nice.

regalman190
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« #5 : September 06, 2013, 06:52:15 AM »

You're right Mike. I went and looked at pictures of boats I did with plastic and it's a big difference. Going back to plastic for patterns.

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Mike
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« #6 : September 06, 2013, 07:31:21 AM »

Joe i ised to order shrinkwrap plastic up nort and started usi g it for pattern here. I bought clear i think it was 14 mil. 14'x100'.   I stoped buyi. It there and now go with home depot 7mil clear plastic.  Boxed in. Tye paint dept. for drop covers painting.it is 10'x100' Ive never uad a problem with either.
Ive never tried the canvax. Or tyvek. I knit know peppy uses paper sheets

regalman190
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« #7 : September 06, 2013, 02:16:38 PM »

Mike..I started with the 4 mil from Home Depot and then switched to the 6 mil.

Do you prefer the thicker material?
« : September 06, 2013, 02:17:57 PM regalman190 »

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Mike
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« #8 : September 06, 2013, 07:03:39 PM »

6 mil i was wrong i  tried the 4 once snd ive been fine with it. And it a bit cheaper.
Ya 4 works just fine for me have you had any issues ?

regalman190
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« #9 : September 08, 2013, 08:34:31 AM »

I switched back to the 4. I found with 6 mil that if I pulled too hard it would leave a divot where my finger would be. Also the folds of the plastic were much more pronounced so it was harder to stretch out. I found the 4 better to work with, the folds are not as pronounced and it was easier to get the wrinkles out when patterning.

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fragged8
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« #10 : September 08, 2013, 05:52:51 PM »

if you're not getting the stretch with the tyvek have you tried stretching out the material
on the bench and stapling it down before setting out the pattern ?


Mike
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« #11 : September 09, 2013, 07:39:42 AM »

Rich what i meat was you streached the plastic a bit patterning

Then laying it on your canvas even thou i weight it down to hold it in place it can shrink up a bit. The plastic then when cutting the canvas top your fit will be tighter and wrinkle free.   Normaly when i do a long cover  i be sure to pull the plasticpattern tigh streached. I clam in to the canvas and table on the center seam line.  Using thoose quick woodworking bar clamps. To make sure im not a inch short on say a 12' long cover.

regalman190
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« #12 : September 10, 2013, 11:53:33 AM »

Rich...I prefer to stretch the plastic on the frame during patterning. Then, as Mike states, it relaxes on the table a little. Stretching the fabric on the table is a bit of a concern to me, because if it's not stretched uniformly, you could generate other issues.

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« #13 : September 11, 2013, 04:52:16 PM »

When you sew down your zipper pockets, do you lay everything flat around the curve? Pocket flat, flap flat?

My bet is you've got to move your pocket/main top seam towards the bar about 3/4" around the bend and 1/4" along the crown.

Try it. Open the zipper or pick the stitches around the bend when enclosure is, then see where it lays.

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