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: spraying glue  ( 3497 )
Mike
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« : February 25, 2015, 08:23:40 PM »

ve always used canned sprayglue   or used weldwood by brush and ro 5 ller but im redoing the hulliner in my boat and want to try spraying and got a cup gun with  the glue.

I think I remember reading that you don't need to cleam the gun after each use cant be right. ?

MinUph
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« #1 : February 25, 2015, 09:32:22 PM »

That depends on how often you use the gun Mike,
  We have a couple of guns with glue in them. They get cleaned once in awhile but not often. They are used most days so the glue doesn't really harden. Also they are not spay paint sprayers they are glue sprayers you buy for spray glue. Love em.

Paul
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kodydog
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« #2 : February 25, 2015, 09:38:42 PM »

Paul, isn't there some kind of thinner for when the glue thickens. Been a while since I used one. I tried lacquer thinner once. What a smelly mess that was.

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sofadoc
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« #3 : February 25, 2015, 11:45:30 PM »

I use a K-spray system (also goes by the brand name Critter) It rarely ever needs cleaning. It works great with any fast-tack foam and fabric adhesive, such as Camie. But since Weldwood requires applying to both surfaces and waiting a few minutes before bonding, I would think that it would clog more easily.


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MinUph
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« #4 : February 26, 2015, 05:42:22 AM »

Paul, isn't there some kind of thinner for when the glue thickens. Been a while since I used one. I tried lacquer thinner once. What a smelly mess that was.

Paint thinner is the cleaner for this type of glue. I use to use laq thinner also to thin it out. That was when it wasnt used all the time.
What Sofa said is what we use also. Same guns same glue.

Paul
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Darren Henry
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« #5 : February 26, 2015, 07:22:25 AM »

I'll have to try paint thinner---I've always used mineral spirits and it works alright.

To help keep the glue from getting too thick I stick a drawing pin (thumb tack with a plastic end on it ) into the vent hole and another in the nozzle.

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« #6 : February 26, 2015, 07:44:59 AM »

I bought a gun along with the weldwood fron keyston bros.  like I said ive never sprayed it . the gun looks just ike a old hun my father had for paint I have so im going to try it this weekend on my liner since its overhead I figure ill save my arms a bit ill try paint thinner to clean at the endof the day

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« #7 : February 26, 2015, 06:34:25 PM »

I was new to spraying contact cement. Last summer I did a lot of tests spraying contact cement and I found laquer thinner to work the best for cleaning. laquer thinner has toluene in it and toluene is one of the main solvents in the weldwood contact cement I was spraying. I also used laquer thinner as a thinner for contact cement and it worked great.
MinUph
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« #8 : February 26, 2015, 10:13:54 PM »

  I think there is a misunderstanding here. Contact cement is not what I was talking about. My bad. What I was refering to is the spray foam glue. Contact cement from weldwood is a different animal and very well may clean up better with lacquer thinner.
  Also when I refer to paint thinner I am also including mineral spirits.

Paul
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« #9 : February 26, 2015, 11:06:37 PM »

My last job in NY we used Camie in a pressure pot with a nice spray gun, these are really nice to use and the glue does not gum up if not used in over a week. Very adjustable spray pattern too. Can be expensive but if you spray a lot well worth it
Mike
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« #10 : February 27, 2015, 07:57:17 AM »

ok thanks ill get sme laquer thiner going to try it this weekend

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« #11 : February 27, 2015, 10:53:47 AM »

Hey guys while were here I need some info and to start,  thanks Sofa for the sprayer info its funny the day before yesterday I was looking at a video from the home page above and noticed the same sprayer wondering where that was available and all my tea glasses ha ha. I really only had seen in my small world just auto types, an eye opener for sure.  To help any I still am a consistent buyer of lacquer as a cleaning thinner for task I do,  most automotive coatings very rarely use any in there paint systems for the last 15 years.  I will guess and say only the vinyl top installs and some of the interior work ups with the likes of 3m in a can for brush on or spray in the auto arena.
 This is where I am lost on glue please can some explain or send me a name if that's un cool to mention mfg's,  What glue is repositionable and any special foam to foam usage.
Lacquer is ok with me its the acetone that I'm outa here for the day with!
Good Day everyone
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« #12 : February 27, 2015, 06:57:39 PM »

http://s775.photobucket.com/user/sofadoc/media/spray20glue.jpg.html

That's the gun I've used all through my career. I've always wanted to try an auto style gun---but they are so much more work to clean that I never have.

For those who have never used one here are a few things I've picked up over the years:
>The "tank" is actually a standard pint mason jar. I believe the gem not the wide mouth---I haven't canned in years. I've replaced a few over the years. I've also taken them off the gun, filled them to limit the amount of air in the jar, and sealed them with a regular sealer lid for long term storage  so all I had to clean was the ventury (sp)  and the take up tube by blowing a shot glass or two of cleaner through. And if your friend drops a just filled one 30 " onto a concrete floor---YOU HAVE A MESS!

>Pipe cleaners are the exact size to clean the take up tube. The ones from the tobacconist , not the hobby shop and the ones with the wire bristles are preferred. They also fit the vent hole in the "lid". It too needs to be kept clear otherwise you cannot create the "siphon" that this type o gun uses.

>NEVER try to unscrew the the lid by the handle * ! You will bend that white metal handle and the air stream will not align with the take up tube---gun is pooched. Spray the  threads of the lid and the cap on the glue can with silicone spray at every fill to prevent glue from sticking them shut. If either of them seize anyway---heat the ring or cap with a heat gun to reactivate the glue and they'll spin right off.

* over time the ring and lid will become one unit until you have to breakdown and soak the whole works to clean it.

> The brass ventury (sp) on the top of the take up tube controls your low rate (spray pattern )---If you are changing it often---keep the spring under it clean. If you're using the same old same old for life ---don't sweat it.

>These guns don't sit well  on the table and as mentioned a pint of glue and broken glass makes a nasty mess. I have a coffee can screwed to the legs of my foam bench that I stand mine in---jar inside/ handle out. I also use the garbage can etc... to do the same thing. BOAT FOLK-- I've also rigged up a short strap that snaps around the handle near the hook with a snap on the distal end. If I'm working in a boat I'll just snap it to one of the snaps for the boat top and let it hang outside while I  lay that section in place.

 

Life is a short one way trip, don't blow it!Live hard,die young and leave no ill regrets!
Mike
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« #13 : February 27, 2015, 07:59:14 PM »

Darren I was going to start spaying glue today but when I set up the gun to test spray my compressor broke well the regulator on it did so off to lowes and bought a new portable kobalt unit  150 bucks. then I found the quick connect nipple wasn't right and took 2 trip to the hardware to get it right .   layed out the hulliner to get it ready to lug into the boat.   

Darren Henry
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« #14 : February 28, 2015, 08:59:24 AM »

Quote
my compressor broke well the regulator on it did

It's been a couple of years since I changed my last regulator, but I think it was like $30 at Princess auto. It's a five minute repair---don't forget to buy teflon tape while you're there LOL.

Life is a short one way trip, don't blow it!Live hard,die young and leave no ill regrets!
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