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| | |-+  What are your steps in precision cushion or the like sewing?
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: What are your steps in precision cushion or the like sewing?  ( 792 )
baileyuph
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« : May 26, 2015, 07:36:17 PM »

More specifically, after creating a precise pattern, which is normally followed by precision cutting, what are the most accurate sewing steps do you use to fabricate a precise cushion cover to meet the final requirement?  Please present your process when working with the light weight fabrics we are expected to work with today that do "ravel".

Please inform of the equipment(s) generally used (machine and foot/feet as the case may be).  Assume the cushion is corded.

So, how do you do custom cushion sewing - in terms of the number of passes when covered cording is included in the seam?

I see it all done by manufacturers - sometimes one seam does it all.  Their equipment must be a bit different than most of our shops sponser. 

Doyle
sofadoc
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All types of upholstery.....except cars and boats.


« #1 : May 26, 2015, 09:01:04 PM »

Under normal circumstances, I set the stitch length to just a little over 4MM (about 5.5 SPI).

1/4" welt foot. 5/32" fiberflex welt.

69 thread. 20 gauge needle.

Servo-motor set at slowest speed.

I sew the welt to the plate all in one pass with welt on top (I never could get the hang of sewing the welt on bottom).  Then I add the boxing.

I'm not seeing that much unusually light weight fabric. I know that some of you worry about raveling. I haven't observed it to be a problem, so I don't do anything special in that regard. Just a 1/2" seam allowance and a tight stitch.

"Perfection is the greatest enemy of profitability" - Mark Cuban
baileyuph
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« #2 : May 26, 2015, 09:12:19 PM »

Sounds effective Dennis, I do get some thin fabrics (COM) to deal with.  Suppose I could reject those jobs, seriously been thinking about it with explanation to customer.

Thanks,
Doyle
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« #3 : May 27, 2015, 05:29:54 AM »

I buzz around the cushion pcs. with my overlock (W&G, w/3 threads, 14/16 needle, and #29 poly. thread, no differential feed adjustment).  I adjust the differential feed a tad and overlock the welting strip, too (this minimizes the stretch as the bias is pulled under the needle).  I stitch the ends of the welt strip closed, rather than folding them closed.  I generally cut acrylics with my Engel hot knife, but will use shears and the overlock on the lighter weight acrylics. 

I apply the welt to the plates on my walking foot machine, using 18/20 needle, #46 or #69 poly. thread (depends on the fabric's hand), 1/4" foot, 5/32 poly. welt, and 5-6 stitches/inch.  No adjustment to step on the inside foot.  I join the boxing to the plates and carefully mark the corners and along any seams that are going to require precise shaping, or be really long (eg. V berth cushions or long window seat cushions).  When working on vinyls, I'll use a wedge point needle and sometimes lengthen the stitch a scooch and perhaps increase the step on the inside foot.  I topstitch with #138 poly. thread and #20 needle. 

I am careful about making the time to adjust tension, esp. with topstitching  because the thread weight is considerably higher; was "burned" by failure to this on a big job one time; mistakes on vinyl and leather can't be massaged away as is often the case with wovens.

I don't try to cut down the number of trips around a cushion although the time savings is appealing.  I know my method works for me and delivers consistent results; and over the years I've developed an orderly system of cutting and assembly.  I do higher end, custom work, pay attention to details, and charge accordingly. 
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