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: Staples  ( 2656 )
cajunpedaler
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« : November 13, 2015, 10:07:45 AM »

I have brought this topic up before, but now it has gotten out of control.  I am using a Rainco staple gun.  It is in good shape, I have had it rebuilt a couple of times.  I shoot my staples at about 60psi and that usually sets my staples like I like them to be.  Doesn't sit proud, but doesn't cut fabric.  

Doing slip seats, or anything, for that matter, you know you have to re-position some staples.  And every one of the staples breaks. I use my Rainco gun, OR I use my Porter cable gun, it shoots better at about 90psi.  Staples break no matter what gun or pressure or technique.  They break when I use a staple puller to pull them out.  Not when I shoot them.  I've used different staple pullers and tried to change my technique.
And this is getting ridiculous.  Doubles or triples work time on simple jobs.  Sometimes the little nub that remains, breaks off below surface, but sometimes have to get tack hammer to knock down the little pricks sticking up.  The brand that I'm currently using is BEA type 71, 3/8" leg.  
I've googled and BEA Bostitch appear to be the same company.  I'd like to see if I can fnd a good source for staples that don't break.  I bought a huge box of Senco a long time ago and wonder if that brand would work better.  
This has to end.  There has to be a solution.
Any comments appreciated, unless you just want to say I'm a moron...
Happy Friday 13th!!
« : November 13, 2015, 10:48:26 AM cajunpedaler »

If at first you don't succeed, redefine success. If at first you fail, redefine failure.
brmax
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« #1 : November 13, 2015, 10:33:35 AM »

I haven't yet use some galvanized I have in bea 71/10 but will try to use some, I see the scan number on the box but not sure I could figure a lot no.
will post back
brmax
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« #2 : November 13, 2015, 11:05:49 AM »

I ran a slide of them 3/8" galvanized bea's thru, a bea  half at 60 other at 90psi at the 60 psi about 12 ea at side angle so as to easily ? remove with a standard puller 2 out 10 on removal with puller broke the long end but noticing if I had held/bent over the long end they gave up with no issue and no breakage while removing.
Now half of each roughly at mentioned psi was in a/c plywood and other in white oak, but knowing much finer furniture is hard maple I will try to dig some out of the pile, and no problem just be some time later.
While doing this in other area I still didn't find my new box of bubbles for the level, but made for a good coffee break.
see ya later
Floyd
kodydog
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North Central Florida


« #3 : November 13, 2015, 12:26:53 PM »

I use Bea only because this is what my supplier provides and he delivers for free. I've found it hit or miss with Bea. I've bought some that were very aggravating. The case I have now seems pretty good about not breaking. Just bought a new one, we'll see. I used Senco years ago with much success. Can't say how they are now.

I don't think it has anything to do with the air pressure or how you are shooting them. My guess is its just a weak metal.

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.
http://northfloridachair.com/index.html
MinUph
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Mainly furniture. Tarpon Springs Fl.


« #4 : November 13, 2015, 07:44:11 PM »

My supplier (next door)carries two brands of staples.

  We have had this discussion many times. Blaming wood types but I find it is the staples.

1. White box, will break every time they are removed.

2  Bostitch will not break when removed.

  He only carries the Bostitch in 3/8" length so we have other sizes in the white box.

  The white box brand is a no-name I'm sure they are made in China. Not sure if the Bostitch are made there or here.

  Bottom line is cheap staples break.
« : November 13, 2015, 07:45:12 PM MinUph »

Paul
Minichillo's Upholstery
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baileyuph
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« #5 : January 11, 2016, 09:20:15 AM »

Why staples break?  Everything mentioned can cause the problem.........the staples.....the gun.......and possibly the user and gun.

There are correlations, in my humble opinion:  wood being used (when wood reaches a certain degree of softness, it will pull out regardless of staple length.  Then, to a degree the length of staple can show a correlation - get the staple short enough, not near as many will break.

Then, obviously there has to be a correlation in staple metal.  Weaker metals will break q
quicker and after a point stronger metal is harder to break.

What about staple width?  Perhaps there is a correlation in that area?

But, more simply what can be done by the user if it is an option?  Use as short of staple as possible.   

Making it short ----- cheaper metals have to be a culprit because cost enters into almost every manufacturing equation.

As a note, a bit off the issue, but which staple puller style do you prefer (furniture work)?

Doyle
byhammerandhand
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« #6 : January 11, 2016, 05:04:52 PM »

I'm thinking the same thing.  Cheap.  Save ten cents on a box of staples by using low tensile wire.  Never mind the headache it causes the user.   I have had the same problem with some casegoods.   They used the cheapest possible screws and if one breaks, it might take an hour to fix it.   Even at full retail, there can't be a dollar's worth of screws in the whole $4000 piece.  At wholesale, maybe a quarter and they might save a dime over the cheap screws.

As to your final question, I like the Osborne 121.  Nearly all the work I do I have to remove staples and reuse the fabric as I'm just opening it up for a peek or a repair.

http://www.csosborne.com/no121.htm



Making it short ----- cheaper metals have to be a culprit because cost enters into almost every manufacturing equation.

As a note, a bit off the issue, but which staple puller style do you prefer (furniture work)?

Doyle

Keith

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work." Thomas A. Edison
poppy79424
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« #7 : January 19, 2016, 07:57:14 PM »

I remember back in the old days before air staplers. We used the squeeze the handle guns. Me and my brotheres used to shoot em at each other. It's a wonder we all still have both eye balls. We use Dou-Fast Guns and chinese staples. The duofast 50 series are 20 ga. They have a 1/2" crown and the staple itself is thicker than the 7 series staples we also use. The 50 series work better on vinyl. They wont shoot through the vinyl like the thinner 7 series do. The thing is the 50 series have 5,000 per box and the 7 series have 10,000 per box. I only buy by the case. We shoot a insane amount of staples at my shop. I have some fastco guns for the 7 series and 1 I bought from china to see how it works. I have 1 automatic gun the shoots like a machine gun. Its interesting. I just orderdd 2 new guns from Salco. I bought a new one from Duo-Fast last week for $169. These I just ordered are $60 Ea. Ill see how they work, look here>>>    https://www.stapleheadquarters.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=PS5016
« : January 19, 2016, 07:59:23 PM poppy79424 »

baileyuph
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« #8 : January 20, 2016, 09:37:08 AM »

Good equipment on doing stapling pays off if you do the variety of work explained (vinyl/fabric, etc.).

I agree,  one size nor type necessarily fits all.

Doyle
baileyuph
Guest


« #9 : January 31, 2016, 09:32:33 AM »

Don't get me wrong, I am a dummy in spite of sharing this idea:

I had a good amount of medical office furniture to redo this past week and was reminded of this thread about needing to remove staples to realign the material being installed ..............
So, I went to a rather smaller staple for the initial installation and that did help in the removal problem being discussed.

Then, after I got on base, changed gun with a larger staple actually desired for the installation.  This really helped, removal when necessary was a breeze and speed was added when it was time to run the bases.

It worked toward a nicer bottom line.

Doyle
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