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MinUph
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Mainly furniture. Tarpon Springs Fl.


« #30 : July 08, 2017, 03:21:38 PM »

If you talking about an outside wall I would say yes sheetrock first then furring strips then pegboard. Inside walls not necessary but rock would make a more solid wall behind the peg boards. The pegboard today is not what it was years ago. It is all cheap crap now from the big box stores.

Paul
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sofadoc
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« #31 : July 08, 2017, 03:38:44 PM »

I once put pegboard over sheet rock. I had to drill out every hole so that the pegboard hooks would go in. Then many of them still wouldn't stay in because the bend in the hooks wouldn't catch in the holes due to the thickness of the sheet rock.

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Mojo
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« #32 : July 08, 2017, 09:23:39 PM »

Ed:

The only drywall I will install in Florida is the green drywall, otherwise known as garage drywall which is more impervious to moisture. It is worth the extra couple dollars. I built out our shop using it and was very happy with it. I can tell you the very best investment you can make if your drywalling the ceiling is to go to harbor freight and buy a drywall jack. It will be the best $ 175 you ever spent. Or if you want, you can drive down to our shop and I will loan you ours. Use screws, do not use drywall nails. They tend to pop. Buy 3 extra drywall screw bits for your drill too.

It will probably take you 7 to 10 days if you are finishing off the drywall. It took me a week to do two offices. I will never do it again. I am getting too old for that crap. It is back breaking work if you are doing the ceiling.

I did a mixture of drywall and peg board in my tool room at home. I suggest, because of the Florida humidity that you keep your peg board use to a minimum. The stuff warps like crazy if the studs are 2 ft centers. Yes you can nail them right to the studs though I nailed them to firing strips run  vertically and horizontally. I use 1 inch roofing nails. Do not use the pegboard on the bottom half of the walls. It will warp like crazy after it picks up moisture from the concrete.

Chris
MinUph
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« #33 : July 08, 2017, 09:29:28 PM »

I once put pegboard over sheet rock. I had to drill out every hole so that the pegboard hooks would go in. Then many of them still wouldn't stay in because the bend in the hooks wouldn't catch in the holes due to the thickness of the sheet rock.
That's why you fir it out first. :)

Paul
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kodydog
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« #34 : July 09, 2017, 08:46:58 AM »

Thanks for all the great advice. Looks like 1/2 " all around will do it.

Chris, is this what you mean by green drywall. It says Mold-, mildew- and moisture-treated gypsum core and treated paper facings.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Continental-Building-Products-Common-1-2-in-x-4-Ft-x-8-Ft-Actual-0-5-in-x-4-ft-x-8-Feet-Mold-Defense-Drywall-Panel/3032546

Another question. Its been about 12 years since the last time I hung drywall. What I remember is the hanging part wasnt so bad, especially using one of those machines Chris describes but the joint compound is what killed me. Can't I just hang the drywall and call it good? No joint compound, no hard coat and no paint. I've seen this before in garages. Its not pretty but I really don't care. Am I missing something like fire codes maybe?
 

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« #35 : July 09, 2017, 09:19:35 AM »

When we built our house, they used green drywall in all the areas surrounding tubs, showers, washer/dryer.

When I lived in a rural area, I built 16 X 16 shop so I could work on some jobs at home. I finished out the inside with just sheet rock. No tape and bed. No paint. Like you say, if you don't care. But code enforcement might.

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MinUph
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« #36 : July 09, 2017, 10:47:47 AM »

Lets see here "green drywall" is a farse. If it were to last a month longer than normal rock I would be very surprised. Some people use it because it is sold as a moisture additive. It is no better than standard rock. Shower areas call for cement board, exterior walls are rocked with normal rock.  The green stuff is a DYI sales ploy.
  You should always tape and finish drywall. It seals the joints. Not to mention it looks finished. If you dont want to or know how to tape then put something over the seams. It will also help with HVAC use. You are going to insulate right? Or not?
  Have fun and if your not comfortable with sheetrock job it out. A good hanger will do it in no time. And a good taper in half a day. One coat.

Paul
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« #37 : July 09, 2017, 12:07:28 PM »

Ed - the dry wall taping is not so bad - I'm sure you will breeze through it.  Instead of dry wall tape try the fiberglass self stick tape to bridge the joints.  The mud becomes easier if you don't have to embed the tape into the first coat. Just cut to length the fiberglass tape - apply - and put the mud over it - three light coats to minimize sanding.  You can also wet sponge the last coat lightly just before it hardens to minimize using sand paper -
SA
kodydog
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« #38 : July 09, 2017, 02:41:40 PM »

The walls and ceiling will be insulated. The walk through doors and garage door will be insulated too. the windows are double pane. I will do whatever it takes to make this building tight. So I guess joint compound is necessary. Thanks guys.

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gene
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« #39 : July 09, 2017, 03:32:06 PM »

Quote
I once put pegboard over sheet rock. I had to drill out every hole so that the pegboard hooks would go in. Then many of them still wouldn't stay in because the bend in the hooks wouldn't catch in the holes due to the thickness of the sheet rock.

Why wouldn't you just buy the sheet rock with pre drilled holes in it, and then match up the pegboard holes to the sheet rock holes? That would save you a lot of time, wouldn't it?

On a bit more serious note, do you not need a vapor barrier for walls in Florida? And I would think you would want insulation to keep your cooling costs down.

Ed, you can probably rent a drywall jack at a rental store. I would think joint tape and mud over the tape as a minimum. If you don't want to mud the entire wall at least you have the room sealed.

My back is starting to hurt just thinking about it.

gene
« : July 09, 2017, 03:33:15 PM gene »

QUALITY DOES NOT COST, IT PAYS!
baileyuph
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« #40 : July 09, 2017, 07:29:37 PM »

Obviously, the electrical will be done by the (a) contractor.

How does the cost of doing the walls in a shop like pre finished  panel board?  Probably less labor but material cost is the issue?

Maybe get into the shop, just make it usable, and when money is available, it can be done
then?

My walls are insulated block with 100% brick on the external, now that cost!

Good luck Ed, you are getting closer it sounds like.

Doyle
kodydog
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« #41 : July 09, 2017, 08:07:45 PM »

I know 3 different guys who are electricians and could help me wire the shop but they do not have their license. The electrical will be pretty basic, all 110 volt, 20 amp circuits. The builder suggested 200 amp circuit breaker box. The shop will have its own power meter supplied underground by the existing transformer in front of the building. When I asked zoning if I could wire it myself they said no. We must use a licensed electrician. The builder will handle all of the the electrical except getting the power from the transformer to the meter box.

My dad helped me wire my old shop in Suwanee County. Zoning there wasn't as strict as High Springs. In Suwanee County we had to dig a 3' deep ditch 120' long and place 2" conduit in it for the power supply, the power company did the rest.

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.
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Mojo
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« #42 : July 10, 2017, 07:15:15 AM »

Ed:

You want to make sure before you drywall that you install a vapor barrier over the insulation on the inside. In regards to mudding I did it in two coats. I didn't want to sand and spread dust everywhere so I used a wet sponge. They sell special drywall sponges at Lowes. They work great but wear out fast so buy 3 or 4 of them.

I once drywalled a shop and instead of mudding the joints I stained some trim board and used that across the seam, similar to a chair rail. I used simple 1 x 2 boards that were stained across the corners and across the ceiling and wall joints. It actually looked nice. You have to run the boards horizontally of course.

I would look for a licensed electrician who will allow you to run all the wires and then they come in and terminate the box. You mark the wires as to the location back at the box. They come in and check everything and then install the breakers and do the final work. This saves labor costs on pulling wires. Also, I would go with 200 amp service. Most of the meters are now 200 amp and it is becoming standard. The cost between 10 amp and 200 amp is only a couple hundred dollars and is worth it.
I will probably be changing my service over to 300 next year as I am maxing out with all that I am running on the property. I will do all the work myself and then pay an electrician to inspect and place his sticker on it. I just need his license for the county inspectors.

I ran the pegboard across the firing strips and installed the firing on 32 inch centers as well as all along the bottom and top.

Chris
Mojo
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« #43 : July 10, 2017, 07:23:32 AM »

Ed:

This is the drywall jack I bought. It works great. I am too damn old to be lifting 4 x 8 sheets of drywall overhead and could not afford being down with a back or neck injury. You simply lay the sheet on the jack and crank it into position. It holds it tight against the ceiling and you can move your ladder around while screwing it in place.

Be sure and use the drywall drill screw bit. It sets the screw and dimples the drywall at the same time. They are only a couple bucks and you will probably go through 2 or 3 of them.

Like I said I have a brand new drywall jack your more then welcome to use. It breaks down so will fit inside your van. Just let me know if you want to use it. I got mine on sale plus had a 25 % off coupon .

https://www.harborfreight.com/drywall-panel-hoist-lift-62484.html

Chris
kodydog
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« #44 : July 11, 2017, 07:40:29 PM »

Met with the builder yesterday and still need to iron out a few details. He should start the permitting process by the end of the week. Meanwhile last weekend I was busy tearing down this old shed and rebuilding a new one. The old shed was on the property when we bought it. Aparently the person who built it used 2 X 4's for the corner posts and didn't know about treated wood. The posts were mostly gone from termites. The new shed is 100% treated and used to store my old lawn tractor.

 

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.
http://northfloridachair.com/index.html
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