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: Coil springs  ( 1218 )
kodydog
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« #30 : December 13, 2017, 08:20:12 PM »

LOL it's a lot easier isn't it. Zig-zags were invented with manufacturing production in mind.

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.
http://northfloridachair.com/index.html
MinUph
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« #31 : December 13, 2017, 08:23:18 PM »

Ziggers are OK and easy but you can't beat a hand tied coil spring base for comfort and support.

Paul
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« #32 : December 16, 2017, 07:51:15 PM »

      
Do I fasten the front to back ties before anything else?

Progress!!

http://gdurl.com/X1L5

When I reach the springs at the back (or the front) is it necessary to tie the rung closest the nail? Like usually about 3 down.

Everything is lining up pretty well. It is still pulled ever so slightly to the right, but I'm hoping that I can manage that with the burlap and the edge roll.
MinUph
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« #33 : December 16, 2017, 08:38:50 PM »

Yes fasten the mail ties completely before moving to the cross ties. Then finish them off then the diagonals. You can tap the edge wire where it connects to each front spring the opposite way of the way you want the spring to move to even it out some. Not too much but it helps. Do each one

Paul
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« #34 : December 27, 2017, 05:57:04 PM »

I've had these springs done but ordering the burlap caused a delay.
Not the greatest picture but looks like I need the spring edge to come down about 1/2"?
http://gdurl.com/QPdc

Burlap and supplies here tomorrow so I can finally begin upholstering.
MinUph
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« #35 : December 27, 2017, 06:10:12 PM »

The front edge looks like it is even with the rest of the springs. This should be slightly higher but you will be OK when you put an edge roll on. That will make it higher. Next spring up I have I will try to remember to take pics of the process so you can follow the twines. It looks pretty good 65. Nice first spring up.

Paul
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« #36 : December 27, 2017, 08:37:11 PM »

Thanks Paul. I have a good idea of what I'm going to do in order to construct my seat decking.
Question I have is would it be a good idea to cut a piece of dense dacron to go directly over the springs before I do the burlap to avoid squeaks, etc? I then plan to go with 1/2" foam and cotton to build it up nicely.

BTW it would be cool to see a photo or two of what you're working on these days
MinUph
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« #37 : December 27, 2017, 08:48:32 PM »

Dense Dacron would be a waste under the burlap. It will probably just conform in and around the springs and breakdown in short order. Just do burlap and then whatever you use. Dense Dacron sounds good on top of the burlap. One thing you or others may not realize is if you have bonded Dacron and press a steamer on it it actually melts it down to a very dense consistency. A couple of layers of this becomes a good start over coil springs. Over the burlap. Try this and you will stop pressing on fabrics when there is bonded under it.

Paul
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SteveA
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« #38 : December 28, 2017, 08:53:27 AM »

I have success putting cotton in between the springs before I cover them with burlap - cuts down on noise

SA
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« #39 : December 29, 2017, 04:05:33 PM »

http://gdurl.com/o-3a

what's the best way to attach the burlap around the corner here?
Same goes for the decking/apron. I threw it away and I don't have a reference. except that I can see pleats on the decking from the picture.
MinUph
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« #40 : December 29, 2017, 05:42:32 PM »

I couldn't explain this if I tried.

Paul
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« #41 : December 29, 2017, 07:43:12 PM »

yes. I figured it would not be easy to put into words. If I remember right, it was pleated at the front of the arm rest. So the entire front of the burlap was smooth. I'll figure that part out.

Trick is for the decking. I guess I'll just have to lay some fabric there and adjust it until it works.
Though, I can't quite remember if there were any fasteners for the 'apron' right at the front of the armrest, where the edge wire bends around it.

I never take enough pictures. I get so into the teardown that I don't stop and take a photo. comes back to bite me. Might have to set up a cam of me tearing down to get something to refer to.
MinUph
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« #42 : December 29, 2017, 09:22:47 PM »

Seeing you have a curved front section it would be easiest to have the seat made in two pieces. The top piece shaped to the front edge after the edge roll is on and possibly a little filling, and the front piece would be straight cut to sew onto the top piece all around the arm and back a couple inches past the arm rail. A sew in strip would be put in the top piece probably where back of the arm rail is and stop sewing it 2" in on each side. This piece of fabric would be 2.5" wide with the seam sewn down the center and straight across the top seat piece again stopping around 2" from the arm rail on each end. I unually leave several inches of this sew piece to tack on the side rail just to take out any slack and keep it smooth.

Paul
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« #43 : December 30, 2017, 08:15:54 PM »

All understood.

Except for the sew in strip.  Am I sewing this at the same time I sew the apron to the decking? And then I use this strip exclusively to sew to the burlap?

And BTW I hadn't used 'no-sag' burlap and I wouldn't order it from the same people again (because it took forever) but it is quite good quality. Tight weave and you definitely can't see light through it. I think they claimed it was 17oz.
MinUph
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« #44 : December 30, 2017, 09:23:48 PM »

No the sew strip is sewn about 3-4" back from the front edge (seam) It is done all by itself so all you see when complete is a seam running left to right about 3-4" from the front edge that underneath has the 2.5" piece of fabric sewn to this seam that you in turn sew to the burlap. It gives you the indentation you want.
  If you bought no sag burlap it is overkill for the top. No sag is for the base in place of webbing. I use 10 oz. I believe. I can see through it a bit. It is fine for the top.

Paul
Minichillo's Upholstery
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