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: Name brand, designer fabrics or not?  ( 109 )
65Buick
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« : October 24, 2017, 02:37:39 PM »

This is important. While I am now being offered work from designers, I still like to upholster pieces on my own time, for sale to the public.
Here comes the dilemma: I have been buying 'brand-name' fabrics, with hope that people will see that it is not junk, that it is done with quality in mind, and that the fabric has been tested for durability.
So far, to no avail. As I currently look for a fabric for a little loveseat, I wonder, do people care? I can buy 'no-name' fabrics for 1/2 the cost, or less. Meaning, a cheaper price to the consumer.
I understand that in reality this is what most companies have concluded. I had hoped to find a niche, who desire quality, and durability.
I asked a supplier in Los Angeles, what are you double -rub counts? 'I'm not sure, but I would guess 40k'
Is this good enough? Sounds to me like no testing was done whatsoever. Possibly made overseas, and probably would present problems.

I am lucky that designers here prefer Kravet, which I know to be quality fabric, with extensive testing done. Higher price means more people employed to make a quality product. Being that we have a local rep, I likely would not make any money at all but using the fabric, but possibly would get more local jobs.

So I ask you all for your thoughts, and possibly could you include what sort of fabric that you use? You don't have to tell me everything, just the basics.

Ian
MinUph
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« #1 : October 24, 2017, 04:17:54 PM »

So now we know 65's name. Hi Ian.

  Fabrics to resell on furniture like you are trying to do doesn't really matter other than you no one will ever ask or care. I should say 95% of people won't. As for selling fabrics for the trade to put on customers furniture this does matter.  One there is more profit in better, higher priced fabrics. 2 the companies tend to stand behind their products, and three you can get special pricing sometimes. They will work with you. The double rub thing is a test that I fond a helpful tool to tell durability. 40,000 is a good number 10000 and below is not so good. Anything over 40000 or 50000 foesnt really matter any more. That's how I have been made to understand the testing. So 1000000 while it sounds and looks good isn't all that much better than say 40000. Most people will change fabric by then anyway.
  So go with name brand companies for you fabric sales and anything that looks good on the stuff your trying to sell. Just dont use ugly fabric.

Paul
Minichillo's Upholstery
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65Buick
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« #2 : November 06, 2017, 04:44:11 PM »

Hi Paul, I thought I said my name once before.

I went ahead and ordered the velvet. It is Kravet, a preferred fabric by my area designers. Being a remnant, it was an incredible price.

So my question now is about the decking. I have a decking that a little looser weave. Being that it is velvet, I wondered if that is a better choice than the traditional decking that is used now, which is a quite smooth. I have noticed on my home sofa that the cushions constantly move forward.
In lieu of this, am I better to use the looser weave in hope that the cushion will not move forward?

The nap is to be run down the piece, correct?
MinUph
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Mainly furniture. Tarpon Springs Fl.


« #3 : November 06, 2017, 05:34:16 PM »

Ian,
  Velvet should run from top to bottom on the back, back to front on the seat cushion and generally down on the rest. Cushions can move forward for a couple reasons. The front seat section should be slightly higher than the deck this helps hold a cushion in. Velvets may tend to walk forward. The deck cloth should be of good grade. It doesn't really matter other than durability.

Paul
Minichillo's Upholstery
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65Buick
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« #4 : November 13, 2017, 01:24:44 PM »

Thanks for that, Paul.
I've decided I'm going to run the fabric RR. Does this mean I should do the same for the cushion?
And also the apron (the front facing directly under the seat)?

This is going to be a killer piece.
SteveA
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« #5 : November 13, 2017, 04:57:02 PM »

Ian this is an interesting market you have exposure to.  The ability to apply a fabric of your choice  vs customer selects fabric of their liking -
I guess you have to stay neutral and have a sense what's popular in your area ?
SA
65Buick
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« #6 : November 13, 2017, 08:17:16 PM »

Steve - well, that's the plan. Upholster pieces with a lower price tag than some of the high-end stuff.
And, use it as a showcase to gain commission work.

65Buick
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« #7 : November 15, 2017, 08:11:19 PM »

Well folks looks like supplies should arrive tomorrow. Got lots going on in my head as I think about how to approach this piece.

I think I'm set on the velvet nap issue as I don't want any seams on the IB. So really, everything else is based off that decision.

I'll probably have a few more questions as I go.
Assuming I run my nap side to side (RR) on the seat, would I do the same for the apron?
We had a discussion a while ago about this; the part of the frame directly in front of the seat.
MinUph
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Mainly furniture. Tarpon Springs Fl.


« #8 : November 15, 2017, 08:32:03 PM »

Velvet will shade based on the direction of the nap. If you RR it one place rr it everywhere. Don't mix it up. I know you have decided on doing this and that is all well and good. It is your business. But if this is a true Velvet the cushion will be walking in response to the direction of the nap. Good luck. If the piece isn't used much it won't really matter. But anyway run it all in the same direction.

Paul
Minichillo's Upholstery
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65Buick
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« #9 : November 16, 2017, 10:36:01 AM »

Hmm. Either seam the IB or RR everything. Not the greatest of decisions but one I imagine comes up often.

Still have work to do before I begin cutting fabric.

What would you do? You would seam IB, Paul?
MinUph
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Mainly furniture. Tarpon Springs Fl.


« #10 : November 16, 2017, 12:25:05 PM »

Yes probably would seam the back if it is real velvet.

Paul
Minichillo's Upholstery
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kodydog
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« #11 : November 16, 2017, 09:48:59 PM »

If I remember correctly the loveseat you are getting ready to upholster has a tufted back. The back was curved and flowed into the arms that were also tufted. Can you post another picture?

I think you said you were going to eliminate the tufting. In this case you will need to add seams in that corner where the back meets the arms. If the back is less then 54" wide and you seam it at the arms you can cut the pattern up the bolt.

I can't remember if there is one cushion or two but if the back is wider then 54" then how will you piece the back? If you piece it at the ends and then add seams in the corners where the back meets the arms it will look odd. You will have two seams right next to each other. If there are two cushions you could piece it in the middle where the cushions meet. But this may look odd also.

I'm stating this all from memory. I can't remember where I saw your post with the picture. But I'm thinking the only way you can make it work is to RR it.

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