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: pattern with dots ?  ( 11266 )
fragged8
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« : June 10, 2010, 12:11:49 PM »

hi guys
 
  this is for those of you who pattern with dots..

  I haven't used this method much at all and might have patterned my self into a corner,
 even though it has worked for me before.
 
  I marked all the bows and centers and added double dots to the bows where the
 radius flats out into the straight.  At the windscreen between two of the fittings I put just one dot .


 this is wrong isn't it .. ?

 how are the dots placed at the screen  ? one above the other or following the window frame angle ?

 is it best to run a window line tape from frames to windscreen and mark the dots either side of the tape at the screen ?

Mike8560
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« #1 : June 10, 2010, 12:41:43 PM »

If I'm rolling you rich your talking where say three front windows will seperate with a zipper   To mark the joint seam ect. I just mark a line where the intersection is then in most cases I pattern one front window piece and mark the pattern with theese line for seperation when making my window panels. A line on the frame and a line between the snaps on the windshield frame  with tape of course to mark on.
fragged8
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« #2 : June 10, 2010, 04:31:29 PM »

Hiya

 Not really Mike, here's some pics. Its a nasty little boat but the hood is typical of the local
hoods. I couldn't persuade the customer to have a convertible top.

I have marked the positions I put the dots and how many.

I also marked the front bow because it is giving me grief, it is a short little bow just supporting
the long span from the tallest bow to the screen, i want to pattern as if it wasn't there but if I put
it in position i need to put some darts in the top. you can see the old top doesn't have darts there.
« : June 10, 2010, 04:34:43 PM fragged8 »

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« #3 : June 10, 2010, 05:38:01 PM »

Hi Rich;
I pattern usually using the dot method.
If I read you correct, then I believe you need two dots there.  As you know, the two dots are usually space an inch apart and determine the spacing for the top and the side curtains.  The bottom dot determines where the top goes down to and the top for the s/c overlap (or should I say "underlap"?  ;D )
So, if this is the case, then you need to determine if the dot you made was for the top or the curtain (or, did you just mark an intersection??) then adjust your pattern accordingly...
-Howard-

I'd rather be sailing..  - but if ya gotta work it's nice to be around boats!
fragged8
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« #4 : June 10, 2010, 05:42:14 PM »

hiya

Thanks for that , i marked only one dot and then messed up on the pattern
by not adjusting for it . Grrrrrrrrr

 i guess im going back to pattern again tomorrow ..


rich

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« #5 : June 11, 2010, 05:29:12 AM »

Nice explanation Howard! I think maybe I understand the dot method a little now. So you could space the dots 8" apart say, and have an 8" 'underlap'? Thats cool.

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« #6 : June 11, 2010, 06:41:20 AM »

I pattern also with the DOT method. Two dots for sure, 1" apart. Makes life very easy.

As for the front bow, pattern it separately. Tape it in position where you want it and pattern one piece from the tall bow to the small one. And then from the small bow to the window or windscreen as you call it. Mark each of the two dots on each panel on the bows and at the boat. They will overlay like a puzzle.

I have found that patterning each piece of the top individually works much better than trying to span all the bows with one piece of plastic. And, it doesn't take much longer to do it that way.

Regal Canvas
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« #7 : June 11, 2010, 07:47:28 AM »

hiya

 I've just been going through my MCFA dvd's and they use dots 1/2 " apart . I was using 1"

 so i've been drawing it out and made a sample piece, i figure I need 2 dots all over.

 Because this is a pram hood and the rear curtain does not remove ( it has a walk through opening ) I also need to put 2 dots on the hull at the stern, not just one.



 I've been getting away with it because it in my ignorance i've been using dots to pattern the top and then returning with the new top and patterning the doors separately, so i got away with it until now

 Also I think that i'm going to pattern the new one forgetting the tiny bow at the front, you can see in the pic ( scroll up ) that there is no join in the panel there, I'll pattern as one panel then lift the bow into position to mark for pockets. its a 60" span so needs the little bow.

 do tell me if this sounds like i'm wrong
« : June 11, 2010, 07:53:12 AM fragged8 »

regalman190
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« #8 : June 11, 2010, 08:01:20 AM »

Hi Rich. I started with those dvd's too and found the 1/2" to be too small of an overlap. I switched to 1" and it's much better.

Regal Canvas
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« #9 : June 11, 2010, 08:14:07 AM »

how do you place your zippers ?

 with 1/2 they fall on the top edge of the door with the teeth showing, and on the top if i sew 1 1/2 inch reinforcement the edge of the zipper sews right along the top edge of the reinforcement .

rich

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« #10 : June 11, 2010, 08:22:21 AM »

hiya

 I've just been going through my MCFA dvd's and they use dots 1/2 " apart . I was using 1"

 so i've been drawing it out and made a sample piece, i figure I need 2 dots all over.

 Because this is a pram hood and the rear curtain does not remove ( it has a walk through opening ) I also need to put 2 dots on the hull at the stern, not just one.



 I've been getting away with it because it in my ignorance i've been using dots to pattern the top and then returning with the new top and patterning the doors separately, so i got away with it until now

 Also I think that i'm going to pattern the new one forgetting the tiny bow at the front, you can see in the pic ( scroll up ) that there is no join in the panel there, I'll pattern as one panel then lift the bow into position to mark for pockets. its a 60" span so needs the little bow.

 do tell me if this sounds like i'm wrong

That sounds ok Rich, yes if it is a straight run between the front & second pole. should be fine.   IMOP  :P
I also prefer a bigger overlap  ;D  1" is good  :D

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« #11 : June 11, 2010, 09:16:03 AM »

hiya

 Thanks Grebo

 does that mean you guys are using 2" reinforcement so that the zipper follows the top edge of the reinforcement ?

rich


regalman190
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« #12 : June 11, 2010, 09:26:19 AM »

Rich. I have never used that reinforcement like the video shows, and I have never had a problem.

With 1" overlap, I set the zipper on the window with only the teeth exposed, and I set the zipper tape on the top at 2" from the edge of the top.


Joe

Regal Canvas
fragged8
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« #13 : June 11, 2010, 09:48:34 AM »

Hiya

 Thanks for that Grebo and Joe

  So if you guys are making a 1" over lap with 1" apart dots that means you're all using a 2" finished reinforcement tape right ?

 Because I'm using 1 1/2" reinforcement 1" apart dots wouldn't work. but i can always cut some tabling.

 I made some test pieces and a 1" overlap with 11/2" reinforcement means the zipper half on the door has to be sewn too far down covering the zip by about 1/2"


rich
« : June 12, 2010, 04:11:08 AM fragged8 »

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« #14 : June 11, 2010, 11:46:48 AM »

I normally cut 2" reinforcement strips, and/or 2 1/2" canvas if I am binding the edge or 3" with out binding & turn both edges under. I have just ordered some pre cut 2" pvc for reinforcing  that's gota save loads of time.... I hope.... ;D

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