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: Zippers in boxing  ( 5480 )
bobbin
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« : January 17, 2011, 03:10:32 PM »

OK, frustrating day at the sweat shop today.  I'm doing an interior (nearly a dozen cushions), working with a navy velour, and am required to cut the boxing down the selvedge.  Some of the zipper boxings are upwards of 90" long and I'm having a terrible time getting the zipper chain to lie anywhere near flat.  It rolls and the velour is stretching.   I can "pull it out" but the point is, it shouldn't require "pulling" to lie flat!

Normally, I prefer to cut boxing cross grain to minimize this effect, but it's "not my sandbox" and I have to play by the rules!  Can any of you offer some suggestions to make this less frustrating?  I am so thoroughly irritated right now I can't think of much, lol.  I'm running 92 poly. thread (we have nothing lighter weight) and an 18 needle on a Consew 255RB.  I don't have any other machine options.  The boxing is folded in half and I place the folded edge over the centre of the zipper teeth (#5 chain), obviously the zipper chain is on the bottom.  Thoughts?
fragged8
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I didn't do it nobody saw me do it , prove it !!


« #1 : January 17, 2011, 04:25:05 PM »

oh man , I wish i could help Bobbin but you know the problems i had with
Chenille last week ..

Rich

JuneC
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« #2 : January 17, 2011, 05:13:45 PM »

If you could iron the velour I'd suggest fusible interfacing to stabilize the fabric, but the iron's going to flatten the pile most likely.  Would steam perk it back up after the fact maybe?

June

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bobbin
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« #3 : January 17, 2011, 05:32:16 PM »

Forget it, boss would have a baby if I showed up with interfacing and/or broke out the iron (the very iron I donated 6 yrs. ago). 

Is this an issue for any of you? are you able to feed folded boxing and zipper tape through your machines and get a flat panel or do you experience "rolling" (looks like waves of fabric and zipper tape) on the backside of the needle, too?
jojo
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« #4 : January 17, 2011, 05:47:44 PM »

June is right on the money. The problem is that the velour has stretch, but the zipper tape does not. the only way around this is to interface the fabric to eliminate the stretch. Alternatively, you can hand sew it on, but that sounds like it would take forever. Good luck!
bobbin
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« #5 : January 17, 2011, 05:59:45 PM »

Ironing a napped fabric is not really an option.  Aside from being a huge time waster, it's potentially dangerous in a shop without vacuum and bottom steam.  I've spent enough years in garment work and dry cleaning to know the many pitfalls involved.  Thanks anyway, I'll by-pass that minefield thanks, lol. 

I guess the greater question is how do you deal with the feed on your walking foot machines to keep the zipper tape as flat as you're able while applying boxing to it? are you guys stitching the boxing twice (stitching, then turning the fabric over and topstitching it again) or do you just "live with" the wave-like result and allow the tension of the foam inside the cover to "stretch it out"?
jojo
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« #6 : January 17, 2011, 06:17:16 PM »

Yeah, I guess it would work to just live with it. Have you ever had a sweat jacket with a wavy zipper? It kind of bugs you, but it's just the way it is. And on a cushion, most people will never see the zipper anyway.
JuneC
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« #7 : January 17, 2011, 09:03:17 PM »

I always stitch the zip twice (once on wrong side, then top stitched)- but then, I never make that part of the boxing double-width because I don't want that heavy a fabric on the edges when it comes time to attach the plate/welting.  But then, I don't use napped fabrics in my line of work either.  Even with some slippery-backed vinyls, though, the same thing you're experiencing has happened to me if it's doubled over and sewn on one pass.

June

"Horse sense is the thing a horse has which keeps it from betting on people."

     W. C. Fields
gene
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« #8 : January 17, 2011, 09:45:00 PM »

You can try a glue stick - the kind for paper. I use this for matching seams. They are in that round tube dispenser that you twist and the stick comes out. I like the purple glue for some reason. Run the stick down the center of the folded fabric. Press it together and let it dry.

You can also try a very small stitch length and a slow sewing speed.

If there was an easy answer to your question I wouldn't cringe every time this topic comes up.

good luck.

gene

QUALITY DOES NOT COST, IT PAYS!
lruthb
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« #9 : January 17, 2011, 10:22:54 PM »

I have used skirt stiffener. Just a small strip  between the fabric (1" to 2" ). With really streachy stuff I double sew like June suggested. I sew the zip and 1 layer of fabric with the stiffener then turn over and top stich. Either way there's only one layer of stiffener. 
sofadoc
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All types of upholstery.....except cars and boats.


« #10 : January 17, 2011, 10:37:59 PM »

Instead of a glue stick, take some high-strength industrial adhesive..... and glue your boss to his chair!
Then, do whatcha gotta' do!
Seriously though, I'm with Gene about using a short tight stitch. And I really hold onto the leading end with my left hand, and pull it through.

"Perfection is the greatest enemy of profitability" - Mark Cuban
baileyuph
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« #11 : January 18, 2011, 09:19:52 AM »

Been there Bobbin, there might be some variances in experience due to machine adjustments; foot pressure, thread tension and even foot selection.  But, I heard you, you have to work with what is in the sandbox.

So, the process of running all this through the machine is about your only variable.  I will sew the zipper in with a light consistent hand of fabric tension. Based on your sewing experience, I know you understand.  No tension on the fabric expcept just enough to keep it smooth.  Having done that, I don't think, given expected cushion fill tension, there will be a problem.  If so, I wouldn't look forward to accomplishing good square corners.  The plates and boxing, I assume are the same fabric. These synthetic nappy materials can be and are a PITA.

Doyle
bobbin
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« #12 : January 18, 2011, 04:43:36 PM »

I have worked with this fabric before and it was problematic then, too.   Because it's a knit and not a woven it handles differently and the stretch can be tricky at first.  It was difficult to cord with the polycore welt, I think because it is quite rigid.  I would like to try using a softer welt the next time, and I would also like to try making the cover on my overlock machine. 

This time I don't have to contend with cording, but the fabric tends to pucker and creep.  I had slightly better success stitching the zipper  twice but the tape still looked bumpy until pulled a bit.   I know the foam will fill the cover out well.  I have topstitched the allowances to the boxing and was careful to make sure it was evenly tensioned and flat.  But the zipper thing still isn't the way I want it even though it will get the job done and the work is neat.   

Allan
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« #13 : January 19, 2011, 04:49:45 AM »

Let the boss know you are having a problem and ask him how he would do it and do as he suggests

Nothing like passing the buck but he is the one you have to satisfy in the end before it goes to the customer

Allan
bobbin
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« #14 : January 19, 2011, 05:12:12 AM »

Hey Allen, it's great to see you back.  I sure hope things are OK in your neck of the woods. 
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