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| | |-+  Bayliner capri 1988
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: Bayliner capri 1988  ( 5575 )
Grebo
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From the Costa Del Wotsit. Espania


« : April 28, 2011, 06:44:53 AM »

Hi all  ;D
I have just been asked for a 'ball park'  ??? price for covers for a bayliner capri 1988
Something like this I guess, haven't seem it yet.

Front bow cover separate & another one either from the screen backwards to the transom or over the screen.
Any ideas ?

Suzi

DBR1957
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« #1 : April 28, 2011, 09:08:42 AM »

I could tell you what I would charge but it might not be applicable for your
location.

Bow cover - Cut & sew blanks, fit, sew and install - 3.5 to 4.0 hours
*Over window cockpit cover - 11 hours
*Top of windshield cockpit cover - 7 hours
Add for snap installation
Add all materials and support poles.

*There were a series of Capris that had a very narrow frame around the
windshield and required a special snap. It was a large plastic clip-on.

If this model has it I would recommend the over windshield cockpit. Because
of the direction of tension the top of windshield cockpit cover creates, those
snaps will constantly pull off. On some models there is a small crease in the
frame where the factory drilled and used pop rivet snaps for the stock convertible
top and sidecurtains. However, these are too close to the edge of the frame to
work effectively for a cockpit cover.

« : April 28, 2011, 09:18:10 AM DBR1957 »
Grebo
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From the Costa Del Wotsit. Espania


« #2 : April 28, 2011, 09:16:18 AM »

Brilliant, thanks soooo much  :-*

Suzi

Mike8560
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« #3 : April 28, 2011, 11:30:27 AM »

I'd say 8 yards of 60" at about $600 us
at my shop T the lake up north theis type of job was my bread and butter

In my prime I did up to 6 of theese a day
on a trailer outside my shop
 
« : April 29, 2011, 07:45:58 AM Mike8560 »
Grebo
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From the Costa Del Wotsit. Espania


« #4 : April 29, 2011, 10:48:34 AM »

Ok, seen it now.  ;)


So I talked him out of using the snaps on the frame. I was thinking right over the screen  ;) thanks DBR, over the side windows & grommet / bungee to the white bit. One pole ? about midway. If I follow the side screens there will be a dip in front of the outboard motor. Couple of straps either side of the motor to pull it backwards & use the pops down in front of the screen.
Separate cover for the front with pole in middle. Use the pops fitted & maybe attach to the main cover at the base of the screen.  
What do you recon  ::)

Suzi

Mike8560
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« #5 : April 29, 2011, 11:28:12 AM »

Suzie I'd pull it tight front to back down the centerline first then pull it side to side so you won't be plow and puddling water at the rear. One poleis enough I lut the
 slightly to the rear of center as the water will pudle in the rear
normal snaps is what I would use
Grebo
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From the Costa Del Wotsit. Espania


« #6 : April 29, 2011, 02:28:42 PM »

Thanks Mike, so to pull it tight on the centre line I need to fix it on the leading edge of the outboard well. Then pull it upwards towards the corners, is that right ?

Suzi

DBR1957
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« #7 : April 29, 2011, 04:52:13 PM »

This is one of those fun jobs. I've done plenty of them as we had a Bayliner
dealer 10 minutes from us. If you pull the centerline front to back first it will
dip below the windshield side wings. Notice how the sides are flat horizontal
from the front corners to the turn down. You need to start center front then
center the blanks side to side at the turn down corner of the side wings. It's
a little frustrating because you have to go back and forth to get right then
sight the centerline to the stern.

For the outboard well I always mark straight up to the blanks from the corners
of the well and measure for an inside skirt. It gives a very clean appearance.

I forgot about the limited space at the base of the windscreen which limits the
ability to install separate fasteners for the bow cover and cockpit cover. You will
probably have to use double length common sense fasteners. However, we used
to talk the customer into a one-piece bow/cockpit cover which eliminates the need
to add fasteners there. Only drawback is some people use the bow cover to block
the wind on cooler days and the one-piece doesn't offer that option.

Don't know about grommets and bungee on the sides. You need to keep any
drilling 3/4" to 1" below where the window meets the hull. These older Bayliners
are pretty thin below that point and you will find your screws will just spin and
not grip.  I always just used standard Dot snaps.
Mike8560
Guest


« #8 : April 29, 2011, 06:03:54 PM »

You've got a motor well so you really can't lull the center

On  the bow cover limited space what I would do was install gypsy studs on the bow cover then the cockpit cover could snap to the top ot itand rain would not get I. The bow under the cover after running Down The window   
DBR1957
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« #9 : April 29, 2011, 06:59:27 PM »

You've got a motor well so you really can't lull the center

On  the bow cover limited space what I would do was install gypsy studs on the bow cover then the cockpit cover could snap to the top ot itand rain would not get I. The bow under the cover after running Down The window   

Not to be contrary;

Sure you can lull the center. I've done it about 50 times. Tension to the transom
is provided by going to the rear outside corners and the rear corner to either side
of the motor. With the skirt sewn in it actually provides resistance against the
pole tension. For extra measure sew a strap w/buckle on the center seam and
wrap around the bracket/steering cylinder for the motor.

Re the gypsy studs, my experience has always been the two covers will stay
fastened together and the bow cover will release from the snaps. Especially
if they are the factory style rivet on which don't hold as well as the screw on
style dot snap.
Mike8560
Guest


« #10 : April 30, 2011, 07:39:43 AM »

Ya that happens dbr if so a locking fastnet on the bow and cockpit will stop it in the
right spots   
Down here in Florida I  don't see covers like that   Last one a cockpit cocver o did was on a 30 foot regal express most are center consoles or lardfe express and rhenexpress generwly just have windows up   No cockpit cover 
fragged8
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I didn't do it nobody saw me do it , prove it !!


« #11 : April 30, 2011, 09:10:25 AM »

the very first boat i covered in school  was like that
center seamed and patterned with a blanket, darts along the
top of the screen edge following the curve.

Ouch damit pins will be invaluable .

the bow cover had xtream seal sewn around the edge
 a centre snap installed on the wrong side of the opening window lower edge
to stop the edge rising, or falling with water on it.
2 common sense either side of the door and a tent pole in the bow

oh yes and colour matching snaps ..





Rich

« : April 30, 2011, 09:17:18 AM fragged8 »

ncydmn
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« #12 : April 30, 2011, 10:12:20 AM »

I have owned this very same year boat for 14 years.  Have it for sale right now.  The cover on it is 13 years old made from Top Gun.  The boat sits out 24-7 and the cover is faded but still in great shape.  I also did the interior about 5 years ago and took out the horrible pink and aqua.  The blue and yellow looks much better. 
I made the cover two piece in front.  The windshield base has gypsy studs so I can put the top cover over the bow for storage and reverse it for towing.  That way the water runs off during storage and the wind flows over it in transport.  Roy.

http://roykeithclassics.com/programs/carlotpage.cgi?19881489387_39

When you get where your going,
Do you know where you'll be?
Mike8560
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« #13 : April 30, 2011, 02:05:20 PM »

The new inferior looks great roy.
I did a cover on a simmilar capri on e the owner thought he could use it for a winter cover and with afoot of snow the thin frames they had flexed and the glass broke.
Grebo
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From the Costa Del Wotsit. Espania


« #14 : May 25, 2011, 02:54:21 AM »

Ok guys, I have it in the shop !   Well next doors garage actually  ;D
My first job under cover  ::)
What this space  ???

Suzi

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