Just 2 questions
1. The vinyl is smooth, and has no grain to it. What to get?
2. Foam firmness. I am thinking firm, like 45lb. For seats.
When bidding commercial jobs price is always most important. Firm foam would be a good idea.
I keep a 30 yd. roll of black vinyl in stock. Smooth grain. It might vary a little from one roll to the next. I buy whatever the supplier currently has a promotional price on. Usually around $7.95 yd.
Most salons want black. If they want another color, the price goes up significantly.
Since I only stock 35lb. and 50lb. foam, I go with 50.
My supplier calls the grade 18-45 for a semi firm seat. Open up and see what was there before. I have the sample foams that supplier's give you upon request. I ask the client to sit on both the 45 + 65 then ask them to sign off on the one they like.
My opinion I would recommend what we use here from this supplier the 45 - the 65 is for bench seating.
Be careful saying "easy job". I've had salon chairs,message tables etc...become a loosing proposition because I didn't allow enough time for all the disassembly and a few rusted/bent bolts.
If it is an upscale salon, show them some samples of Crypton. I've used a fair bit of it for the hospital here.They have some nice patterns and solids.
You're right Darren. I shouldn't say easy job. Hardly ever is.
This salon wants to just replace seats to buy some time. I imagine she has plans for down the road. But I quoted her a price for 4 New seats that would be less than buying one new chair.
Yes, I think that chairs this is not the last thing which they will change in this place
What sort of specs do people look for when selecting a vinyl or contract fabric? As I read about it, I am understanding that double-rub ratings aren't necessarily everything.
I think manufacturers have gotten past their problems with peeling vinyl, but I just need to be sure.
Specs on vinyl are not something most customers look at. That is up to us to figure and show the proper types. The basics are standard cheap run of the mill that is good for certain projects. Marine which has UV and mold inhibitors. Contract can mean many things but I consider it for commercial uses. Hospitality is good for hotels etc good strong stuff. Geriatric or medical and health care vinyls are good for bodily fluids etc. I use to love the Naugahyde vinyls still do they show all this for each sample.
A good way to understand vinyl is like. It all starts out as a plastic, hard. There are softening agents added to make is soft and supple, other agents are added as mentioned above for various used. Take marine for example. Without the UV protection it would get hard very quickly as the sun draws the softening agent to the surface and they dissipate.
It's all the same idea just different things draw out the agents unless there are protections added to the mix.
At this point in time, Naugahyde is a brand, rather than a group on vinyl, is that correct?
There are many competitors, each with their own name. It is about comparing and contrasting the various manufacturers.
As with many things, just only time will tell.
Found plastic film under the vinyl. Think that was to help round the edges of the foam, or to prevent liquids from getting into the foam?
It's only function is to let the vinyl "slide"as you stretch it on rather that sticking to the foam. I always keep a roll of Saran wrap in the shop to put on corners etc before I stretch the cover on,
Coming together. Paul mentioned once that most stretch of vinyl is across the roll.
With this is mind, does it make sense to orient the stretch across the seat , or front to back?
I did my first one front to back.
Most of the vinyls I get up here in Canada don't have much difference up/across the roll for stretch. Or maybe I was a shoemaker too long and the difference seems less important to me compered to leather LOL. With leather or a vinyl that does have a real difference I was always taught to run the stretch side to side. The logic is that people don't slide side to side as hard or as often as they do front to back getting in and out of the seat. Less chance of it stretching out and "bagging/wrinkling" that way.
I have 4 of these. This is the first. This vinyl is the best grade, for schoolbuses etc. the lady at the shop said.
Overall I think it turned out pretty well. the improvement would be the curve at the front/boxing. That was tricky to sew. I tried pulling the vinyl different directions and making sure it was warm. But still it kind of puckered/bulged.
Only thing I can think of is maybe loosen the curve a bit, so it's a more relaxed arc.
I used 3" HR foam. So I think the owner will be quite happy with these. Originally the foam was o.k., but the vinyl was cheap and it cracked.
I'm glad this came up I have just landed 11 clinic chairs to recover, it's for my osteopath so a bit tricky to get out of.
Not something I normally do but I thought I would give it a go ( fool )
He's chosen silvertex from Spradling which is a lovely material but a bit thicker/stiffer than the original cloth.
I thought I would treat the corners like I would a flat panel, cut the corner into fingers & pull & stretch around.
Any tips on getting them nice & smooth, or is that how to do it, with trial & error.
I know it's not pretty, first attempt.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u431/Nala52/th_Seat%20base_zpsh0fumqrr.jpg) (http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Nala52/media/Seat%20base_zpsh0fumqrr.jpg.html)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u431/Nala52/th_seat%202_zpsimd8frpw.jpg) (http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Nala52/media/seat%202_zpsimd8frpw.jpg.html) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u431/Nala52/th_seat3_zpsimrd9u6i.jpg) (http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Nala52/media/seat3_zpsimrd9u6i.jpg.html)
65Buick, cut your pieces a little smaller, you have too much bulk at the corners and the foam is not filling the cover sufficiently.
Grebo, the pads look good, a heat gun will eliminate the need to make all those cuts on the bottom. Not knowing the whole job, I can't say for sure, but you might not have to be leaving so much excess underneath either. You may be able to staple closer to the edge and trim the excess.
When i used the old cover as a template I didn't cut any extra for seam allowance, figuring it was stretched. So I probably ended up almost an inch smaller. Tomorrow I do number 2. Bit too late to change that but I will keep in mind as I go.
Thanks Rich that's very helpful. I didn't think of stapling closer will try that on the next on.
Salon seat #2.
Happy with the stitching. Happy with mostly the vinyl conforming to the shape. But should it be tighter? I am not sure what to do next.
Looks good to me 65.
Really? It is better than the first, for sure. I just thought it felt a bit loose right in the middle and have been wondering if it will lead to puddling in the future.
Its hard to tell that in the pic. If your concerned you would need to glue the center down. But I doubt it will show any wrinkles in the middle with use.
The black is hard to take a photo.
That front curve or arc is hard to sew. I've done well before but maybe it is the vinyl.
I will cut the foam just a little bigger up front in hope of filling up that arc a bit better.
Paul if you say the middle should be fine, I trust that. I don't know if I would want to risk glueing in case the seat takes on a different appearance than the others I've done.
Well... In my opinion #2 was better than #1 or #3.
When I'm all done i will post up some better photos of each.
And, maybe someone like Kody could answer this: I saw no indication of temp tacking. It appeared that the upholsterer strategically stapled once & done. That - is impressive.
Final seat number 4