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How to install zippers in bow pockets

Started by Therapy, April 02, 2012, 01:45:58 pm

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Therapy

April 02, 2012, 01:45:58 pm Last Edit: April 02, 2012, 01:47:03 pm by Therapy
 
     bimni top is 7 years old i want to install zip on the
     bow pockets. Shoud i cut the pocket at the seam
     then cut off 1"off the pocket and then sew zips back on

     I am going to make a new top so putting zips on the pockets
     will make the pattern job easer to take the top off and back on.

    i been watching the videos wow if i hear one more
   DOT i think ill go out of my mind
    This Dot to that Dot the bottom Dot and top Dot
                                Mike H
Juki 563

JuneC

Depends on how you want to finish off the edges.  If you'll bind them, then probably remove an inch.  If turning them under, don't remove anything.  Just place your zip under the slit before you cut anything off to be sure of your measurement. 

June
"Horse sense is the thing a horse has which keeps it from betting on people."

     W. C. Fields

Mike

If you sere making a new pocket mark diwn the center inside of the pocket then sea the zipper on the line cut open the. Enter of the zipper and  bint the raw edges in your case mark the crnter of your pocket snd see the zipper on the inside with the teeth even with the cut the. Bind it   
Tou way would work  and  utting the pocket short eould sllow you to sew the zipper on covering you old stitch holes and faster inexpesive job way id to make your locket and on the ine edge sew your zipper snd sew it to the top you have to adjust at the. Urve gathering the zipper around the curve.

Therapy


  Thanks June and Mike
  hears a pic of the top with the bow pocket
 
So mike your saying cut it down the middle and put the  teeth even with    the cut and then bind should i use seam tape to hold the zip in place ?   

                        Mike H 
  http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj300/dadhuff/SN850497.jpg
Juki 563

Mike

You could but i wouldnt. Remember at the curve to gather the insire radius zipper a bit to allow for the curve

DBR1957

April 04, 2012, 05:43:10 am #5 Last Edit: April 04, 2012, 05:49:52 am by DBR1957
Hmmmm, 7 years old? How's the stitching? Sounds like a waste of time
just to make it easier to make a new top later. If you can just pull the sleeve
up on the inside edge, then I would say do as you thought because you
will probably have to re-stitch that edge anyway.

However, here is my typical way to install bow zippers after the fact.

For #10 zipper.

Always use two zippers for main bow sleeves. You want a start block
at each end. If you don't the stop end can work open or break teeth
from tension.

Draw center line side to side on pocket with hash marks.

Cut 1/2" out along that line.

Bind both sides using care not stretch along bias. For extra strength
you can sew binding flat along edge first. This will aid to prevent stretching
along the bias when sewing finish binding.

Sew one side of zipper (to inside of pocket) on with teeth exposed
along the bound edge. Sew on through binding. Sewing with the
teeth expose will fill up the 1/2" gap you cut out.

Line up hash marks and transfer to zipper tape of other half of zipper
and sew that half on. Again with zipper teeth exposed. Done!

For me this is the simplest way to get a good looking zipper install and
save you from having to unstitch the pocket.


Grebo

I do the same as DBR, unless I feel the zipper needs to be hidden for some reason.

Suzi

Therapy


  Thanks DBR1957
  I was wondering about useing 2 zip or just 1 long one
  the 2 zips make cents
  and i like the idea of sewing one side of the binding first

  My first time sewing zipper
  This will be one more learning curve for me
  Before i start to pattern the boat to make a new top
  and ill just reuse the zips on the new top

                  Thanks Mike H     
Juki 563

Mike

April 04, 2012, 05:35:09 pm #8 Last Edit: April 04, 2012, 05:38:15 pm by MikeM8560
Om glad he mentioned the zipper starting st the ends. I just do that. Atiarly i didnt think to mention it ive seen  on locking zippers ilunfip and the side starts to flap in the wind.  
Thkugh he right it is uneeded work just to make a new top so you can pattern then put the old one back on after till your done.   I did a friends   Bayliner. 27 sunbreidge a long tome ago  imini top cit ti the arce cron and side windows and a aft curtis. Begind the arch.  About 5 hears ago it was looking tired and with ne gone he bought a used singer online and tried it himself. The top fit ok still so he just used it as a pattern a d dupli sted what i had made. He did it o er the winter so downtime with no top was not a issue.
At time if its the olmy or easiest way ill do this as long as the canvas fits.
Atualy i did a forty somthing flybridge and  sft deck eclosure once that was a 2 hr drive away to save  time and money.  Fit perfect and all was happy and i didnt spend teo days patterning. Just time to tske it all down.

DBR1957

Oops! Very important!

BE SURE TO RUN ALONG THE CUT EDGE WITH THE HOT KNIFE BEFORE
SEWING THE BINDING ON.

If you don't seal the edge it might just pull off. You don't need to if you're
going to sew a strip of binding flat first though.

Mike

April 04, 2012, 08:41:32 pm #10 Last Edit: April 10, 2012, 01:46:10 am by MikeM8560
 adding a strip along the edge i would just bind it on and then sew the other edge of it down two times sewing around the edge.  Just as when i do a cover i bind the edge sticjing in the reinforcement then sew the other  edge of it down.
I used to see oem cover that used web ing bound it on. Ut didnt bother to see the oposite edge of the webbing down and then in time the snaps would tear in the canvas as the webbing gust slid with no stitches.  

DBR1957

Mike - I can't count how many times I've had to repair an OEM cover because
the webbing wasn't sewn on the inside edge. What makes that problem worse
is that they use SS snaps and they are never cinched completely. Just a recipe
for a tear.

fragged8

when I sew in a pocket zip I mark the cut line
about 1 1/2" from the sewn down end and make some
reference marks across the cut line to make it easier to sew
the zipper in and have the two pocket halves line up.

bind the cut edge's and use 2 zippers leaving about an
inch in the middle, much more of a gap than that and
you get a little sag in the pocket