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Handy Tool For You Marine Folks

Started by Mojo, October 19, 2012, 12:01:10 pm

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I got this video from Sailrite and just thought I would pass it on to you
Marine people in case you hadn't seen this attachment for rivet guns.

Here is the video of the attachment:  http://video.sailrite.com/SnapRite-Surface-Mount-Stud-Die/youtube.html



October 19, 2012, 12:19:29 pm #1 Last Edit: October 19, 2012, 12:22:21 pm by Grebo
Complete waste of time & money if they used a sealant on the snap it wouldn't fall off when fitting.  ;D

See the price $24.95

Thanks all the same.  ;)



I have never pop riveted snaps on. I always use stainless screw studs so I didn't know if this was something you marine folks could use.

As always I stay clear of marine work so do not stay on top of the tools you guys use. :)



I use my standard rivet gun and the rivet on snaps that dot makes sans the flange. Nothing to buy but a bag of rivet snaps ! Btw hardly ever use them either except on a frame here and there.  :P
duct tape is like the force . it has a light side , a dark side , and holds the universe together.


Its not hard to find a gun eith a narrow tip to fit in a stud. I do t like riviti g on snaps i use the screw studs but like scsrab have rivit of fee odd snaps to a frame or metal piece using a normal stud and rivit.


Five minutes with a grinder saved $25!


I don't understand the hate for pop rivets? I love them. If you smack one on a dock it'll shear off the rivet and not damage the boat. If a screw in stud fails you've got a 3/16 hole. Also you don't need to counter bore the gel coat away to stop it from chipping. Also with screws you need another drill (or a quick change bit) to drive it after drilling. I will almost never put a screw in aluminum, plus with a stainless screw you have the dissimilar metals problem not so with an aluminum rivet. If the rivet comes out you can always put a screw in, if a screw comes out you need fiberglass repair. Just my 2ยข.

Anyway- that tool looks like a way to get another $25 from a guy trying to save money building his own boat canvas. Like a lot of things from Sailrite.
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Me i just dont like the hassle having drill thebhole yes you have anyway. Then grab a stud grsb a rivit put them together and pi k up the rivit gun and insert them   And manu time drop the stud off the rivit into the water.  Instead graba screw stud   Screw gun bevel the jole snd then scre it in. 

I knew a boat shop who used a screw with a  drill tip on it they alsay said i should try them. I had. O. Erns of the velcoat not being beveled and chipping. They said it didnt


The tool that everyone needs is this


Best money I ever spent. Sets 3/16 SS rivets in frame hardware easy. Comes with a narrow
tip small enough to fit in the male snap recess. I use the Manart Quick-Snap, but for installing
in tubing only.

I will not install rivet style snaps in fiberglass period!!!! The rivet expands and crushes the fiberglass,
beginning the process of loosening the grip of the rivet. To be riveted correctly, a backing washer
should be put on the backside so the rivet expands against the washer. Typically we can't get to the
back. Second problem with riveting is when it pulls out the hole is usually to big for a screw style
stud to catch. I have probably replaced 1000 rivet on snaps in my time.

Problem with that video, they are using aluminum snaps which always oxidize and break as well as
start loosening with use.

Rivet snaps do not belong on the hull of a boat!!!

Story - Us Marine (Maxum and Bayliner) have used rivet on snaps for years. The cup only style. When
installed they fill the cup with silicone caulk. A customer we did a windshield cover for (screw style snap)
complained to a Maxum customer rep about some leaking around the windshield. When the rep inspected
the boat he blamed it on us because we didn't fill the snap cups with silicone. I went ballastic! We always
put silicone caulk behind the snap flange. Their method of filling the cup does nothing for water getting
behind the snap especially when they loosen up from crushing the fiberglass and weakening aluminum rivets.
Needless to say, I had to give this know-it-all factory rep some education. Turns out the leakage was coming
from somewhere the factory forgot to caulk.


I use rivets on aluminum boats as I do a lot of pontoon covers and occasional aluminum fishing boats. My rivet tool is a Harbor Freight cheap-o that I have had for years. I have found that these cheap rivet tools float just as good as the high quality expensive ones.  ;D

This Sailrite die might be a good thing for someone not used to hanging off the side of a boat upside down installing snaps in extreme weather while sharks and snakes are waiting below, but for 24.95 I will take my chances! 

We are not retreating - we are advancing in another direction.
Douglas MacArthur

needles eye

i never use aluminium pop rivets as they are just crap
stainless steel pop rivets are to brittle
monol is only way to go, and, nil probs with electrolysis

recently threw myself out on the trapeeze on an off the beach cat
the tang atop the mast let go
lost the wire
and i went swimming
why -
because the mast fitting was pop riveted with an alloy rivet

go monol


Quote from: DBR1957 on October 20, 2012, 06:14:38 pm

I like the looks of this. I'm interested in getting something. I'm getting Popeye arm. How does this compare to a air powered one? Does anyone have an air riveter? I looked at a couple for like $500 + but never used one. My $20 jobby works fine.

My rule is to match what's already on the boat. Or if new screw in glass and rivets in aluminum. I won't change out good snaps unless I get paid for it.
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